The Case of this water-motor is made of an empty varnish can—preferably one of gallon capacity. Nothing better could be desired. The tin can makes a lightweight compact case; the spout in the top is in just the right place and of the right size to receive the water power from a faucet; and as the water connections can be made tight there is no possibility of water splashing on to the floor—a big argument in your favor when seeking permission to use the motor in the bath-tub, wash-basin, or kitchen sink.
Fig. 62.—The Completed Varnish-can Water-motor.
You can get an empty varnish can from any painter, or at a paint store. The first step in converting the can into the motor case consists in removing the bottom. You will find this soldered in place, in all probability, and it can be removed quickly by holding the can over the flame of a gas burner until the solder melts, when a few taps upon the edges will cause the piece of tin to drop off.
The Water-motor Wheel is shown in the cross-sections of the water-motor ([Figs. 63] and [64]), and [Figs. 65] to [67] show its details. The diameter of the wheel should be about ½ inch less than the inside width of the can. In the model from which the drawings were made, this measurement is 5½ inches. Cut the two side pieces of the wheel out of a piece of cigar-box wood, and bore a ¼-inch hole through the center of each for the wheel axle. Fasten a spool to the center of one side piece for a pulley-wheel ([Fig. 66]).
Figs. 63 and 64.—Sections through Water-motor Case.
Prepare Eight Paddles 1¾ inches wide and 2½ inches long, out of cigar-box wood. Locate the positions for the ends of the paddles, upon the side pieces, by drawing a horizontal line, a vertical line, and two diagonal lines at angles of 45 degrees, through their centers. This will simplify the matter of spacing the paddles equidistant from one another ([Fig. 67]). Use brads for fastening the side pieces to the paddle ends. Those removed from the cigar boxes will do.