Report on the Dominion Government Expedition to Hudson Bay and the Arctic Islands on board the D.G.S. Neptune, 1903-1904

by A. P. Low

As the crews live during the greater part of the open season in the boats, these are fitted with cotton covers supported on hoops, and are thus completely roofed in, affording very comfortable if somewhat cramped quarters. Cooking is done with oil stoves, and sleeping is arranged for by placing wide boards across the intervals between seats. The boats leave the ship early in May, long before the ice along the coast begins to break up, and they cruise up and down along the edge of the solid land-floe looking for whales. During stormy weather, and at night, the boats are drawn out on the smooth ice, props are placed on each side to keep them upright, and the cover being drawn on and snugly secured, afford secure and comfortable quarters, provided that the temperature does not drop too low; in that case, resort is made to the deerskin sleeping bags for greater warmth.

The west coast of the bay is patrolled in this manner until about the middle of June, the cruise extending from Chesterfield inlet to Whale point, supplies being renewed every week or so. Each of the ship’s boats is in charge of an officer, who always attends to the steering. The ‘boat-steerers’ are in reality the harpooners, and have nothing to do with the steering of the boat.

Towards the end of June the boats cross through the floating ice to Southampton island, where they remain until compelled to return for fresh supplies, usually about three weeks. A second trip to that island is sometimes made, and in August the ship, now free from the ice, is taken to Repulse bay or the Frozen strait connecting it with Fox channel. The ship is again left in harbour under the charge of the cook and steward, and the boats cruise about until the beginning of September, when the ship is taken to winter quarters or sails for home. If the intention is to remain all winter, the harbour is reached before the middle of the month.

This is the routine, and it is only varied by the capture of a whale. As will be seen from the above description, the boats cruise nearly all the time in the in-shore waters, and the greater number of whales are taken within the three-mile limit, and not on the high seas as is the rule in Baffin bay. If the whale is killed within reasonable distance of the ship, it is either towed alongside by the boats, or the ship comes for it, and an endeavour is made to get the body into a safe harbour in order to save the blubber. A number of whales are killed in inconvenient places, and only the bone is then taken, all the blubber going to waste. When the blubber is taken, it is immediately cut up and ‘tried out’ into oil on board the ship, a large boiler being carried for that purpose. The hold of the schooner is filled with large casks, made in different sizes to fit the shape of the hold. On the outward voyage these are partly filled with the provisions; returning, they carry the oil and furs collected on the voyage.

During the long winter a part of the natives remain at the ship, and are employed hunting seals, walrus, and deer to help feed the women and children and the crew of the ship. The remainder are sent away after musk-ox, and remain away several months, having to go a long distance before reaching the country where those animals are found. A successful party will return with at least twenty musk-ox skins, and these add to the profits of the voyage. Stranger Eskimos also visit the ship to trade, and in this manner a considerable number of musk-ox, fox, wolf, bear and wolverine skins are added.

Unlike the Scotch whalers, where the captain remains on board ship to direct the movements of the boats from the barrel, the American captain goes in charge of one of the boats. This works well in open water, but when the whale is among loose ice very little can be seen from the boats.

The Americans make use of a hand harpoon, and as it is very heavy and has a gun attached to it, the boat must approach within a few feet of the whale before it can be thrown with any certainty of success; otherwise the manner of capture is similar to that already described.

Scottish Whaling Station at Blacklead Island.

Station whaling, which is very similar to that practised by the American ships, is carried on both in Baffin bay and Hudson bay. The stations are either permanent establishments on land, or are small ships that remain constantly in the country, and serve only as a convenient dwelling for the small number of whites with each.