Wolf and Coyote Trapping: An Up-to-Date Wolf Hunter's Guide / Giving the Most Successful Methods of Experienced "Wolfers" for Hunting and Trapping These Animals, Also Gives Their Habits in Detail.

by A. R. Harding

The majority of the trappers who prefer to stake the traps use hardwood stakes and attach the chains by means of hay baling wire, twisting it with a pair of pliers. In many parts of the wolf country, hardwood is not to be had and many of the trappers use the spokes of old wagon wheels for trap stakes. We believe, however, that iron stakes are to be preferred to wooden ones.

The traps to use for coyotes are the Nos. 3 and 4 and the most suitable style of chain would depend entirely on the method of setting and fastening the traps. In some of the sets described, for both wolf and coyote, the traps, some three or four in number, are all fastened to one stake and for such a set the chains should be short, as also in the bank set. Where it is desired to use a drag of any kind, the chain should be 4 or 5 feet in length. This should be remembered when purchasing the traps and the method of setting that will be used should be kept in mind.

As before mentioned, most of the wolves caught are young animals less than a year old. After a wolf has reached its third year, it has attained a high degree of intelligence, and comparatively few of that age are caught in traps. In some sections wolves are more wary than in others and are more difficult of capture. This depends much on the abundance or scarcity of food and the amount of hunting and trapping that has already been done in that section. Where wolves and coyotes have not been trapped much, they are less shy but they are always sufficiently wary to make extreme care in setting the traps necessary for success.

No matter what method of trapping may be employed, there is only one satisfactory way of setting the trap, on bare ground. In a smooth, sandy spot, dig out a hollow the same shape as the set trap and of such a depth that when the trap is in place and covered with about 1/4 inch of dirt, the covering will be flush with the surrounding surface of the ground. A narrow trench may then be made, to accommodate the chain, and a hole in which to bury the drag. If a stake is used it may be driven under the trap and the trench will not be needed, or it may be driven at the side according to the method of setting but the stake must be neatly covered in all cases. The trap is then placed in position, the chain, drag and springs are covered and the portion outside of the jaws is filled with dirt, leaving only the jaws and pan uncovered. Now a sheet of clean paper should be placed over the jaws and pan and the whole covered with about 1/4 or 3/8 inch of fine dirt, covering the edges first and finishing with the center. A piece of canvas or hide should be provided, on which to place the dirt while setting the traps, and with which to carry away what is not needed for covering. When the setting is finished everything should look as smooth and undisturbed as it did before the trap was set.

Trap Set and Ready for Covering.

In case the paper sags between the trap jaws and the pan, a few lumps of ground may be so placed as to support it, but care must be used so that no dirt gets under the pan. In freezing weather, make the nest for the trap somewhat deeper and line it well with sage leaves or some other light material, also fill in around jaws and springs with same, before covering. This will prevent the trap from freezing down. Do not put cotton under the pan as some advise doing, for if it gets wet it will freeze and interfere with the working of the trap. If the traps spring too easily, they may be remedied by drilling a small hole through the edge of the pan and inserting a tooth pick or small twig in such a way that it will support the pan. This will prevent birds and small animals from springing the traps. The same result may be obtained by bending the point of the "dog" or trigger of the trap upward and thereby causing the trap to spring harder.

Always before placing the trap in position, turn the springs towards the jaw that is held down by the trigger. This will allow the loose jaw to drop down to a level and let the trap rest more solidly in its nest. When adjusting the pan, always work from under the loose jaw, to avoid accidents.

Many trappers advise wearing gloves when setting or otherwise handling the traps, to prevent leaving human scent. It is our opinion that this is not only unnecessary but also useless, as the human odor will pass through a leather glove readily, and even through the sole of a heavy shoe. While there is no doubt that the scent of man will put any wary animal on its guard, there is no way to avoid leaving this same scent about the setting. This, however, will pass away after three or four days and it is after the traps have been set for some time that most of the wolves and coyotes are captured.