A Tour Through South America

by A. S. Forrest

A “POSADA,” CORRIENTES.

The journey up the river from Corrientes to Asuncion has plenty of incident to enliven it, particularly when one of the periodical revolutions of the little republic of Paraguay is in progress, for then the uncertainty of finding villages still inhabited, the prospect of encountering tramp steamers converted into “battleships,” and small troops of armed men parading the river banks only adds to the fascination the romantic country already possesses. Ascending and descending the river one meets with travellers of many nationalities, army officers from the republics of Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay, merchants and traders, commercial travellers, tourists, and sportsmen. The increasing numbers who journey up these rivers testify to the growing interest that the vast territories in the heart of South America have created, for the Parana is the only practical highway to the State of Matto Grosso, the high central tableland of the continent. Corumba is the busy little shipping port for a vast territory with which it does a thriving trade, and from it travellers to the State capital of Cuyaba embark upon the smaller steamers which navigate the São Lourenco. This branch of the Paraguay is perhaps one of the most characteristically tropical in South America, the vegetation on its banks growing with a profuse abundance. The State of Matto Grosso is an almost unexplored territory, and although containing a wealth of minerals, hardwoods, and rubber, only a fraction has been gathered and exported. When the half-million square miles that constitute the area of this State are contrasted with the total exports, to the value of about the same number of pounds sterling, the possibilities of enormous developments are apparent. The name of the State, “Matto Grosso” (dense forest), gives some indication of the character of the country, and it is not surprising that rubber should be one of its most important products. Gold is found in many of the rivers and hills, and alluvial workings have been carried on ever since the Jesuits, three hundred years ago, discovered them to be profitable. After heavy showers of rain it is said that gold is washed down the streets of the capital. Diamonds, copper, silver, and lead have also been found, and each year sees more enterprises developing some of the immeasurable resources. In the rainy season, when the rivers break through and overflow their normal banks, it is possible for a canoe or small boat to voyage from the Amazon to the mouth of the River Plate, and many projects have been put forward to permanently connect the two rivers by canals. The old maps of the continent show that a waterway was known to the earliest explorers. Captain Sharp’s map, published in the seventeenth century, indicates a great waterway connecting the Amazon with the River Plate, and on it the territory of Brazil and Uruguay are shown as a huge island quite separate from the rest of the continent, and although the map is rough and primitive, the fact that a river route between the points mentioned existed, is insisted upon with a decision indicative of definite knowledge. Railways are now in course of construction which will connect Corumba with São Paulo, and Cuyaba with Goyaz and the federal capital of Brazil, and then the journey from the seaports of Brazil to the farthest

outposts of the republic will be accomplished in about three or four days, instead of twelve or more, as at present. A few travellers, either to gain experience or from necessity, have made the fatiguing journey from Corumba to La Paz, in Bolivia, and vice versa. From all the accounts they give, it is not one which has many attractions to compensate for the many discomforts and even hardships that are certain to be encountered. From Corumba the traveller proceeds on muleback across a dry, desolate plain, with no shelter and little water for eighteen days, and encounters only a few Indians, friendly enough inclined, but possessed of nothing to offer in the way of hospitality to strangers. Arrived at Sucre, a halt can be made, and a short rest taken before proceeding to La Paz through Cochabamba and Oruro. The whole journey on muleback occupies about forty days, and can be recommended to robust and hardy persons who, tired of luxury and the easy comforts of civilised life, are anxious for a change.

To return to the river. The heat during the summer months is intense, the thermometer usually registering about 90° in the shade. The river continues wide and winding as it passes the Grand Chaco on the one side and the wooded plains on the other. The banks in places are straight as an even wall, and from the steamer look like embankments of masonry. The continual wash from the traffic that plies upon the river has its effect, however, shown by the gaps formed by slides and erosions. Endless swamps stretch for miles during the rainy season, and the many trees are only saved from complete submersion by the twisted cables of lianas which hold them firmly together. Flocks of small aquatic birds amidst the network of creepers and branches are silently alert, fishing for a meal. In many places fantastic and exaggerated tree trunks grow from the water’s edge, and grassy plains, barely rising above the river’s surface, extend for miles. Close by the shores alligators bask, with their ugly snouts just above the water, disappearing immediately they are disturbed by the wash from the passing steamers or the approach of small boats and canoes. On both sides of the river, cattle, horses, and ostriches graze in wild freedom upon the meadowland. Mud huts appear at intervals, and natives in dirty white, ragged garments loll under the shade of thatched verandahs. Many of the huts, constructed with the sides and ends of old kerosene tins and bits of packing cases, add a variety to the architectural styles

TRAVELLERS ON THE STEAMER.

of these primitive habitations. Canoes with blunt prows and rounded sterns ply from shore to shore, and surround the steamers that come to anchor at a “port.” They carry odd cargoes, curious passengers and their belongings, bundles of many colours, old iron bedsteads and chairs, pots and pans, and household goods and chattels; domestic pets, monkeys, parrots, and dogs, all form part of their mixed freight. Trestle beds are the inseparable impedimenta of the German, Italian, and Spanish labourers, who move about from place to place with the characteristic restlessness of born travellers. These beds serve a double purpose, and are used as holdalls for all their owners’ baggage by day, and as their couches by night, when the fore deck of the steamer is transformed into an open-air dormitory. At Formosa, an important though small town on the Argentine side of the river, a large crowd assembles to witness the arrival and departure of the steamer. Cabs and wagonettes convey the passengers to and from the town, which lies at a little distance from the river bank, and the habitual quietude of the port is disturbed for a few hours or so.