A Tour Through South America

by A. S. Forrest

gradually emerged from its grime and squalor, its streets were paved, and its sanitation improved. But it was not until the beginning of the present century that the Government and people awoke and with a feverish energy set about rebuilding and beautifying their city, until it was transformed out of all recognition. Hundreds of narrow, dirty streets have been pulled down, to make way for the Avenida Central, a long avenue of fine buildings which would grace any of the great cities of the modern world. Many of the worst streets in the city have been swept away, and in their place broad thoroughfares full of fine, if somewhat ornate buildings, have been laid down. To-day there are miles of spacious boulevards and shaded avenues, with well-paved asphalt roads and walks, all lit by electricity. The magnificent Avenida Beira-mar, which runs from the southern end of the Avenida Central to Botofogo, a distance of nearly five miles, has few equals in the world. Along its asphalt track countless motor-cars race at a breakneck speed. Fine residences have been erected along this avenue, the “art nouveau” styles of France and Germany being the most popular. The modern houses in the suburbs of Rio make up in depth what they lack in width, and they have fine suites of rooms tastefully decorated and furnished with the latest fashions. The

“THE SILENT BAY.”

extravagantly ornamental frontages evince the Brazilian taste for show and showy things. The town is very straggling and winding, on account of the many hills that break into the plateau on which the city stands. But the vistas and views that the irregularity of the plan introduces are an ample compensation for the detours round the buttresses of the mountain range. At the end of the Avenida stands a very graceful white building, the Monroe Palace, in which the Pan-American Congress was held in 1906, and a little further down the magnificent Municipal Theatre, modelled somewhat on the lines of the Paris Opera House. The best companies from Paris and the Continent find in it a stage and auditorium equal to anything they have been accustomed to. Unfortunately, the municipal authorities have not equipped their expensively built Opera Palace with scenery to match. The stage properties are exceedingly inadequate and inappropriate for such a theatre, and the companies who sometimes perform in it. The stage is enormous, and the actors’ dressing and retiring rooms lofty and well devised. The interior is handsomely decorated although it is hardly equal to the new theatre in São Paulo, which is the finest theatre in South America. At the other side of the Avenida Central stands the new National Library, which contains a quarter of a million volumes, and next to it the Palace of Fine Arts, both imposing buildings. In the latter there is plenty of room for more works of art. There are in the Avenida many handsome buildings and many styles; the newspaper offices are conspicuous, those of La Paiz, The Journal do Commercio, and the Journal do Brazil stand out prominently from other buildings. The large classic building with gilded capitals at the northern extremity of this avenue, is the Treasury, which was built to hold the gold bullion, held as guarantee against the paper currency of the republic. The “Ouvidor,” which, although renamed, still goes by its original appellation, is a narrow, crowded thoroughfare. Its shops are among the best in the city, however, and the fashionable inhabitants throng its pavements in the afternoons. It holds much the same position in Rio as the “Florida” does in Buenos Ayres, although it is not so extensive as the latter. Perhaps the most striking feature in both of these streets is the enormous prices charged for their wares. The fashions from Paris find a ready sale in Rio, and the more daring they are the greater are their chances of success. Nothing in a French mode would shock a “Fluminense,” but they are very particular in seeing that their wives and daughters are properly escorted when they go abroad. A young lady would never dream of walking or even talking in public to a male friend of the family unless a proper chaperon were present. The old, almost Oriental, customs of Portugal and Spain still persist, even in their emancipated colonies. Until women are treated with more respect and less suspicion they will never have the influence upon the country that they undoubtedly possess in other civilised lands. The social functions in Rio are many and varied. During the winter months of June, July, and August many dances and receptions are given by the different clubs, such as the “Naval,” “Military,” and “Engineers,” as well as by the legations and by private persons. These functions are attended by all the notables, and form the principal entertainments of the city. Every night the social Brazilian butterflies of fashion have somewhere to go, and the gatherings are very largely attended by foreigners and visitors. Birthday parties are really popular, and at these crushes the host is usually overwhelmed with embraces and gifts, the latter compensating in some measure for the trying ordeal of standing for hours receiving speeches and replying to them. The Brazilian inherits from his Latin ancestors the gifts of a fluent speaker, and is very ready to give a free play to this talent, which the slightest occasion will provoke him to display. At the private theatricals, plays and playlets are generally given in French and children are pushed forward to show their skill, which

A SUBURBAN STREET, RIO.

is warmly appreciated by their elders. Enthusiastic and unstinted praise is lavished upon their efforts. Art, literature, music, and the sciences find many devotees in Brazilian society, and even the driest of lectures is patiently listened to by large audiences of both sexes. Music they love, but poetry is their passion. There are few amongst the educated classes in Rio who do not at some time or other in their lives compose odes, sonnets, or lyrics, and feel prouder of their poetic achievements than of any other. Almost every man of the better classes is a Dr., and foreigners above the rank of labourers and artisans are generally accepted as possessing this distinction at least. It may be that it is only politeness and not ignorance that bestows this title upon strangers, and it should be looked upon as an intended compliment. The Brazilian is warm-hearted, generous, punctilious in the observances of the most formal etiquette, and although he can unbend with the freedom of a schoolboy, care must always be taken not to trespass upon this characteristic, or to wound his inordinate vanity. Many of them who have travelled and had the advantages of superior education through intercourse with the public men and leaders of society of other countries, have a greater dignity and wider sympathies, and are less likely to make the mistakes of their less fortunate fellow-countrymen, who cannot see their limitations or realise their national defects. The rapid realisation of the wealth of the enormous States of Brazil shows to most advantage in Rio, for the moneyed classes, governors, and politicians of all the vast territory forgather in the capital. The Brazilians are impetuous, and very ready to embark upon great undertakings, many of which are only practicable in their fervid imaginations. They have been held back by the long, unprogressive policy of their mother country Portugal and the severe handicap of slavery. Even under the Empire small progress was made, considering the size of their country and the extensiveness of their resources. But since the establishment of the republic, although there have been many ups and downs and serious difficulties to encounter, they have contrived to make great headway. The rejuvenation of Rio in the short space of ten years is sufficient to demonstrate what can be done by a determined people, and it is little wonder that when they regard the revolution they have already wrought, they should let their imaginations run to flights that make an ordinary mind giddy. The governing classes have a population of half-breeds to deal with, and bring into line with modern progress, and with such material it is difficult to rapidly accomplish great things. The importation of European labour may help them to carry many of their cherished schemes into effect, but it will take years ere the immense stretches of unexplored territory are brought to yield to the world one tittle of their indisputable riches. The practical difficulties that the republic has to face are many, and the very vastness of its sparsely populated territory is not the least. The Federal Government and those of the autonomous States do not always see eye to eye, and the needs and interests of the outlying States are so diversified that it requires great governmental wisdom to hold them all together. That the Federal capital should be the seat of political intrigue is only natural, and States that are largely settled with colonists from every part of Europe are faced with the conflicting interests and desires of neighbours with whom they have little in common. Politics enter largely into the life of the Federal capital. Ever since the first Brazilian Parliament

AVENIDA BEIRA-MAR, RIO.

met there in 1826, under the Empire of Pedro I, Liberal ideas emanating from the Parliaments of the world have met with the approval of the best intellects of the capital. Republican tendencies were fostered by men whose eyes were turned upon the trend of politics in Europe and the United States, and the newly forming republics of South America. Revolutions and revolts occurred in the different States with an alarming frequency. Wars with neighbouring republics cost the Federal exchequer many millions, and held back industrial progress. The emancipation of the slaves was no more popular with the planters and agriculturists in Brazil than it was with the same classes in the Southern States of North America, or in the West Indian Islands, and it took time to bring about such a drastic economic change. The Chamber of Deputies was formerly the old palace of the Emperor, and stands near the Caes Pharoux. It is not a pretentious building, nor are the appointments such as might be expected, but a new Parliament House is projected. The entrance or antechamber is at the top of an old mahogany staircase, and the walls are covered with photographs more or less faded of deputies past and present. An old-fashioned carpet covers the floor of this landing, which gives entrance to the chamber and to the “Cabinete do Presidente.” The deputies pass through a small cloak-room to the floor of the House, a square chamber with seats and benches arranged in a semicircle. Upon a raised platform facing the deputies sits the President of the chamber, a brilliant green curtain trimmed with yellow, the national colours, forming a background. Electric fans whir on either side. Dark-coloured porters and messengers walk in and out, and seem at times to outnumber the deputies. Outside in another antechamber, crowds of citizens wait patiently to interview the deputies on different subjects, but generally to obtain some favour. The eloquence of the deputies is their strong point, and the speeches are long, and delivered with great vehemence. Men of all grades of colour sit cheek by jowl, very reminiscent of some country court house in a West Indian Island. The Senate Chamber is situated some distance away on one side of the beautiful “Praca Republica,” the finest garden in this lovely city. The palace of the President, formerly the Palacite do Friburgo, stands in a broad thoroughfare, Rua Cattete, to the north of the city, and although it has a beautiful garden at the side and back of it, it is not very imposing. On the balustrade at the top are four stone eagles with outstretched wings, otherwise the building offers no particular features. Inside the waiting-rooms are crowded on audience days with every class of the inhabitants, who patiently wait their turn and chances to interview the head of the Government. The ancient palace of Itamarity, where the Minister of Foreign Affairs resides when in Rio, is modest and unattractive externally, and does not indicate in any way the magnificence of the interior, admirably fitted for the reception and entertainment of distinguished diplomats and visitors. It contains a ballroom decorated with hangings and upholsteries of emerald-green and gold, a reception-room carried out in yellow, another in rose colour, whilst a corridor running along the outside of the fine library overlooks a garden where palms and exotic flowers abound. The late Baron do Rio Branco had in this palace many and valuable souvenirs of his travels and illustrious acquaintances, amongst them a large seascape painted by the unfortunate King Carlos of Portugal, who presented it to the “Baron.” The Baron de Rio Branco was for many years an idol of the people of Rio, and enjoyed the reputation amongst them of being a great authority upon all matters pertaining to foreign affairs. He was perhaps one of the few men of his time who looked his part to perfection, bearing a slight physical resemblance to the famous Bismarck. He held aloof from the internal politics of his country, and for twelve years held his office in spite of changes of Government and Presidents. His aloofness from the mob of politicians, whose clamourings and wranglings he seemed to despise, placed him in a peculiar position, whilst his efforts to enlarge his country’s dominions and strengthen her army won him the admiration and gratitude of all classes. He tried to establish a “German military mission” to Brazil, and although he was unsuccessful, his advocacy of German instructors for the army may still bear fruit. That the army and navy of Brazil require to be imbued with a stronger sense of military duty than they at present possess is amply exemplified by the many acts of insubordination they have been guilty of in recent years.