A Tour Through South America

by A. S. Forrest

had been expelled by enemies, and little realising that they were merely placing on their necks a fresh yoke, and paving the way to occupation of their country by white invaders. One of the earliest organised expeditions was that in 1674, under the leadership of Fernão Dias, who had been rewarded in advance by the Portuguese Government by being created Governor of a district which he was still to discover. Dias, of Portuguese extraction and noble birth, had already distinguished himself by conquering and subjecting as his slaves the Goianás, one of the most powerful of the Indian tribes. Feared but not disliked by his slaves, he could always command a large following, and set out from Taubaté with a considerable army, crossing the Mantiqueira and establishing at Serra Negra the first regular settlement in the territory, which was afterwards to be known as Minas-Geraes. A second settlement was founded at St. Anna; and pushing still further, in spite of difficulties and dangers, this intrepid leader reached St. João do Sumidouro, which became the central point for future operations. For three years he held his own against opposition and intrigue, prospecting the region of Rio das Vellias, where he ultimately succumbed to fever. But it was with the discovery of gold at Ribeirãs Carmo and Ouro Preto that the real development of the State commenced, and by the year 1700 a large number of mines, the property of their discoverers, were in working order. The system of

THE RAPIDS AT PIRAPORA, ON SAN FRANCISCO RIVER.

mine-owning was now changed to that of claims, the objecting Paulistas being promised that they should lose nothing by the change, and entrance to the territory by way of Bahia was interdicted. This, however, only led to the opening up of the new road from the coast by way of Espirito Santo, and five years later the futile prohibition was withdrawn. By this time the wealth of the territory had become known, and large numbers of all classes, old and young, rich and poor, flocked in from all parts of Brazil and from lands beyond the seas. Miners and their following have never been a class easily governed, and the arrogant claims of the Paulistas were resented by the rest of the community, who united in opposing them, and thus commenced the welding together of the elements which have gone to make up the population of the State as one finds it to-day. But it was long ere anything like civilised order was established, for the cruelty of the white taskmasters towards the natives and the negroes imported from Africa led continually to bitter feelings of unrest and revolt, whilst the ruling classes, unrestrained by a licentious and unruly priesthood, were themselves demoralised and dissolute, and stern, almost tyrannical, measures were necessary before

OLD HOUSES, BAHIA.

the foundations of government were laid. Much of the State is still unknown save to the wild Indians who roam its forests, but it is gradually being opened up. In addition to the mining industry, which has been carried on for over two hundred years, Minas does a considerable trade in cattle, coffee, tobacco, and other agricultural products. The dairy industry has recently become prominent, and offers a good field for the investment of capital and experience, whilst a fresh source of wealth exists in the manganese discovered in the State when a cutting was being made for the Central Railway. This latter is not only the means of direct communication with the Federal capital, but is pushing out its branches and extensions in all directions. Known originally as the Dom Pedro II Railway, this line is now a Government concern, and aims at bringing all the States of the Union into direct communication with the capital, linking up with other lines, and taking advantage of river transit until inland connection shall be established even with the Amazon, the greatest waterway in the world.

If the traveller wishes for a more ambitious excursion, it will be quite easy for him to voyage northwards towards Atlantic seaboard cities almost as fair as Rio itself. But the selection of the steamship line is of the greatest importance. The two lines to be recommended are the Royal Mail Steamship Co. and the Lage Iramos, either of which is preferable to the national line, Lloyd Brazileiro. The traveller will find in Bahia or San Salvador a city of glamour and enchantment. It was one of the earliest European settlements in Brazil, and it had for a long time a chequered and turbulent history, what with Indian ravages and the desperate conflicts between the Portuguese and the Dutch. But to-day its lines are cast in more peaceful places; its inhabitants have grown to 250,000, who, taking advantage of the lavish way in which Nature yields her treasures in this district, seem quite contented and prosperous. The city consists of an upper and a lower town, the former of which is built on the cliffs. Here are the Governor’s palace, the Senate building, the Public Library, and the cathedral. The last-named edifice is one of the oldest buildings in South America, having been founded as a Jesuit college away back in the sixteenth century. Its interior, like the interior of all the other Bahian churches, is full of florid embellishment, and exhibits the tendency of the Latin-American people towards flamboyant expression in their architecture. Bahia is not only one of the most picturesque of all the cities of Brazil; it is the sea-gate of a large and fertile province, where the kindly fruits of the earth grow and ripen with tropical rapidity. The palms of the district yield a special form of nut, which is exported to the east. Tobacco is a flourishing crop, and coffee cultivation an industry of prime importance. Cotton is grown over an extensive area, and not all of it is exported, for Bahia has many mills of its own. The State is also a great producer of rubber, while the cultivation of cocoa increases year by year. Cattle-raising forms yet another occupation of the Bahians. The transport facilities are also good; several railway systems connect the city with the producing districts, and fleets of coastwise vessels make other ports on the Brazilian seaboard quite easy of access. A brisk export trade is transacted with foreign countries, one of the best of Bahia’s customers being the United Kingdom.

THE BARAS DE AQUINO.