73, Gloucester Place, Portman Square, W.
March 1, 1864.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.—Ancient and Mediæval Cookery compared with the Cookery of the last Half Century.
Garum—Pilau seasoned with garum, [2]. The Feast of Trimalchio in Petronius, [2]. Macrobius’s description of a supper given by Lentulus, [2]. Hedge hogs, raw oysters, and asparagus, and purple shell-fish, [2]. Panes picences, [2]. Greeks and Romans children in preparation of viands, [3]. Carème’s opinion, [3]. Cookery a practical art, [3]. Characteristics of ancient and modern cookery, [4]. The Monks, [4]. Spanish cookery book of Ruberto de Nola, [4]. Leo X., Raphael, Guido, Baccio, Bandinelli, and John of Bologna, [5]. Italian wars under Charles VIII. and Louis XII., [5]. Cookery under Henry III. became Italian, [6]. Cookery under Henry IV., [6]. The cabaret, [7]. Maître queux cuisiniers porte-chapes, [7]. First regular cookery book in France printed in 1692, [7]. The “Dons de Comus,” [9]. Preface written by Father Brumoy, [9]. Brumoy’s comparison between ancient and modern cookery, [10]. Idea of a perfect cook, [10]. “Lettre d’un Pâtissier Anglais,” [11]. Mrs. Rundell, [12]. “La Science du Maître d’Hôtel Cuisinier,” [12]. Carème, [13]. Molière, [13]. St. Evremond, [14]. Lavardin, [15]. The Regent Orleans, [15]. The Duchess of Berri, [15]. Filets de volaille à la Bellevue, [16]. Poulets à la Villeroy, [16]. Chartreuse à la Mauconseil, [16]. Vol au vent à la Nesle, [16]. Poularde à la Montmorency, [16]. Louis XV., [17]. Marquis de Béchamel, [18]. Marshals Richelieu and Duras, Duke of La Vallière, the Marquis de Brancas, and Count de Tessé, [18]. Consumption of pheasants in the kitchens of the Prince de Condé, [18]. Louis XVI., [19]. His enormous appetite, [19]. Effects of Revolution on cookery, [19]. Cardinal Caraffa, [20]. Montaigne, [20]. Restaurants, [21]. Suppers of Madame du Deffand, [22]. Dinners of D’Holbach, [22]. Pic-nics of Crawford of Auchinames, [22]. The epicure Barras, [23]. Danton’s love of morels, [23]. Barras’ love of button mushrooms, [23]. Napoleon’s dinners, [23]. M. de Bausset, M. de Cussy, Cambacères, Talleyrand, [25]. The “Almanach des Gourmands,” [26]. Purge your cooks, [28]. Frog dressing at Riom, [28]. Veal of Pontoise, [29]. Gastaldy and the salmon, [29]. Flesh killed by electricity, [30]. Asses’ flesh, [30]. White grease of the fig-pecker, [31]. Beauvilliers, [31]. Brillat Savarin, [31]. Consumption of turkeys, [32]. The Archbishop of Bordeaux and truffled turkeys, [33]. The “Cuisinière Bourgeoise,” [33]. Fauche Borel, [33]. “Cuisinier Royal,” [33]. Shakespeare, Age of Elizabeth, [34]. Age of Anne, Wycherly, Vanbrugh, Congreve, Pope, [34]. Foote’s farce, [35]. Bills of fare in Pope’s day, [36]. The “Queen’s Closet Opened,” [36]. The “Treasure of Hidden Secrets,” [37]. The “Gentleman’s Companion;” Dr. Hill, “Mrs. Glasse,” [37]. The “Connoisseur,” [39]. White’s, Pontacs’, Dolly’s and Horsman’s, [39]. The “Art of Cookery,” by a lady, [39]. The “Epicure’s Almanack,” [40]. The “Cook and Confectioner’s Dictionary,” [40]. Mrs. Dalgairns, [40]. Scott’s “Dictionary of Cookery,” Kitchener’s “Cook’s Oracle,” [41]. The “Housekeeper’s Oracle,” [41]. Ude, [42]. Walker’s “Original,” [42]. “Domestic Cookery,” by a lady, [45]. Carème, [47]. Turtle soup, [48]. Cookery of England and France, [50].
CHAPTER II.—On Modern Cookery and Cookery Books.
The object of sensible people should be to adopt all that is good in the cookery of France, [61]. French potages and purées, [61.] The gigot à l’ail aux haricots, [62]. The filet de bœuf, [62]. Vatel, La Chapelle, Grimod de la Reynière, Beauvilliers, Ude, Laguipierre, Carème, and Plumeret, [65].
CHAPTER III.—On Dinners and Dinner-giving.