Tangier is the residence of the consuls-general of all the nations of Europe, who send occasionally ambassadors to the Court of Marocco; and these gentlemen generally act as envoys or ministers, as well as consuls. The English, French, Dutch, American, Spanish, Portuguese, Swedish, and Danish consuls reside here, some with their families, some without. I had not been long here before I perceived that the Moors of Tangier manifested an extraordinary contempt for Christians, the general respect which is shown to them at Mogodor, is unknown here. The reason is evident: the families of these gentlemen were at variance with each other, and the respective ladies did not visit one another. This circumstance was too well known to the Moors, and materially contributed to create among those people that contempt for the Christians, which, perhaps, is due to all, whatever be their professed doctrines, who have not charity enough, in the correct acceptation of the word, to maintain harmony in their own community. I was shocked to see so many amiable families at variance. I will not declare if it was pride, ambition, or contention for pre-eminence that produced this want of harmony; but it is most certain, that Christians, whose destiny it is to reside among Muhamedans, should have more than ordinary care to preserve that philanthropic disposition to each other, which carries with it a high recommendation, particularly in a country like West Barbary, where the gate of every tent is open to the largest, most disinterested, and unqualified hospitality, and where the sheik of every douar considers it his first and indispensable duty to provide food and rest to the needy traveller, and to the stranger at his gate.
LETTER XVI.
Diary of a Journey from Tangier to Mogodor, showing the Distances from Town to Town, along the Coast of the Atlantic Ocean; useful to Persons travelling in that Country.
TO THE SAME.
Mogodor, 1801.
If you should ever come to this country, and have occasion to travel through it, the following journal of a journey from Tangier to Mogodor may be of service to you, in ascertaining the distances from one port to another, &c.
Departed from Tangier for Mogodor,
July 15, 1801, at 9 o'clock, A.M. Hours.
Arrived at Arzilla, at 7, P.M. 10
Mounted at 7, A.M.; arrived at L'Araich,
at 2, P.M. 7
Started at 5, A.M.; arrived at Ras Doura,
at 3, P.M. 10
Mounted at 6, A.M.; travelled three hours;
came to a plain, level country, and arrived
at Sallée, at 10 o'clock, P.M. 16
Crossed the river in the ferry, and remained
at the French Consul's Hotel, at
Rabat, three days. Mounted at 9; arrived
at El Mensoria, at 9, P.M. 12
Mounted at 6, A.M.; arrived at Dar El
Beida, at half-past 2, P.M. 8-1/2
Proceeded without halting, and arrived at
the Douar of Woled Jeraar, at 9, P.M.
and pitched our tents 7
Mounted at 5, A.M.; arrived at Azamore,
at 7, P.M. 14
Mounted at 7, A.M.; travelled southward,
leaving Mazagan to the right, and arrived
at the Douar of Woled Aisah, at
1 o'clock, P.M. and pitched our tents 6
Departed at 7, A.M.; arrived at El Woladia,
at 6, P.M. 11
Mounted at 8; arrived at Saffy, at 5 9
Started at 1, P.M.; rode six hours to the
river Tansift; slept at the Sanctuary
near the river 6
Rose at midnight, struck the tents, and
mounted at 1 o'clock, A.M. arrived at
the Sanctuary of Seedi Buzurukton, at
11 10
Dined, slept, and started again at 4
o'clock, P.M. and entered Mogodor at
half-past 7 o'clock 3-1/2
----
130
Average rate of travelling, (including
stoppages,) three miles per hour, 390
miles in 130 hours.