Leaving this digression, our first station yesterday (September 15) was that belonging to Mr. Hamilton. It appeared very populous. Towards evening the river became tortuous in the extreme; indeed, with the breadth the Lady Augusta and Eureka occupy upon the water (forty-two feet), steering the vessels, without a check, through the narrow curves and opposing branches, which continually met us at every point, was almost an impossibility. The weather, which had been lowering since morning, in the evening became perfectly tempestuous; and, amidst flashes of lightning, occasional peals of thunder, and sudden gusts of wind, little else was heard but the crashing of the opposing trees, or, in the deep tones of our commander, the often repeated words, “stand by, below;” “stop her;” “turn a-head, slow;” and at length the welcome order, “full speed.” Thus, for some hours, did we advance, dimly lighted by an overcast moon; and the storm at length abating, without any other mishap than some slight damage to the Augusta’s funnel, and the destruction of part of the Eureka’s rails—thanks to Captain Cadell’s perseverance—we were enabled to hold on till two a.m., about which time we made fast alongside the station of a Mr. Coghill.
To-day (Friday, September 16), steamed on, with some difficulty, through the endless sinuosities of the river, now narrowed to an average breadth of seventy or seventy-five yards, but still affording near four fathoms’ depth of water. At some points, indeed, we were delayed a considerable time, from inability to stem the current in so contracted a space, without becoming entangled in the surrounding wood. Altogether, I am inclined to think that the passage of the river for steamers, such as that in which we now voyage, will be difficult above the Murrumbidgee, except during the flooded season, or about five months in the year. To improve the navigation, however, much might be done by the passage up the stream of a small boat (such, for instance, as the Mary Ann) provided with means to clear away the “snags” or sunken trees, to cut the overhanging branches, &c.
In course of time also, canals, were it only a few yards in length, might be formed for the purpose of connecting the stream by a more direct channel, instead of compelling ascending vessels to navigate the continued sinuosities of the river throughout its entire course.
Swan Hill, a green oasis rising amidst what is, apparently, a desert of reeds, is a valuable station, containing some excellent pasture. Indeed, from these very reeds, which are annually burnt, springs up a “second growth,” affording admirable food for cattle; whilst the flats, at present flooded in all directions, are in summer perfectly dry. On the crest of the hill, 119 feet only above the sea, is now building a sort of lock-up, or wooden gaol. Lower down stands the inn, which appears comfortable, and a store, where the prices of goods and articles were denounced by some of our party as extravagant, even for the neighbourhood of the diggings.[19] I heard 2s. mentioned as the price of a wine-glass of brandy, and 1s. 6d. or 2s. a pound for flour; but do not vouch for the correctness of my information.
We arrived at Swan Hill about mid-day on the 17th September, after 112 hours’ steaming from the Darling (a distance of about 600 miles), having left our consort, the Eureka, on the run of a Mr. Coghill, some miles behind, to commence loading wool for the return voyage. There being a police force here, consisting of six mounted troopers, and a Lieutenant and Clerk of the Court, his Excellency availed himself of it to forward his report to the Secretary of State, and copies of the document to the Governors of New South Wales and Victoria. We remained on this station during the whole of Sunday, hearing Divine Service performed in the verandah of the latter by a travelling ex-member of the Church of England, who read us our beautiful Liturgy in a blue Jersey shirt, and had the good sense or good taste (which, perhaps, are synonymous) not to weary his congregation with too long a sermon.
The Mary Ann joined us on the Saturday evening, and both vessels remained stationary until Monday afternoon, September 19th, when the Lady Augusta proceeded up the river, stopping about twelve miles from Swan Hill to take in some fuel. The country continued reedy and flooded; but the banks of the river were lined with gum trees. Our party, I should mention, has been diminished by one member, a Mr. Bright, who left us at Swan Hill to ride to Melbourne (210 miles), where he purposes taking passage to England.
A few miles from Swan Hill, we observed several of the native turkey, or, more properly, the bustard; they are reckoned delicious eating, but are approached with difficulty on the open plains, where they love to feed. Birds are now more plentiful; and I should have said that three wild swans were seen near Swan Hill.
Tuesday, September 20.—After wooding for two or three hours where we had anchored the previous night, we steamed on as usual; the river widening and presenting beautiful reaches overhung with trees,[20] whilst the continued volume of this noble river, at so great a distance from the sea, has surprised all on board. This morning, we passed a connecting offshoot, or, as it is termed here, “backwater” of the Loddon, which flows into the Murray, near Swan Hill. We are now cramped a little on board for walking room, the deck being too high for many to promenade upon at once, as it causes the vessel to heel over from too much of what is termed “top-hamper;” nevertheless—the weather continuing delightful, even for Australia—and no European climate can surpass, I believe, the Australian mornings or evenings, nor Naples itself, at times, equal the wondrous tints of the sky—all get on, to use an expressive word, “swimmingly,” though none seem to know as yet to what distance our exploration is to extend. On Tuesday evening, the 20th September, we reached the station of a Mr. Hogg, and made fast for the night. A Mr. Dickens, who presented a letter of introduction to His Excellency, joined us here. He was one of the Melbourne steamer passengers, but appears to retain no ungrateful recollections of his detention at Lisbon.[21] The country through which we have passed is flat and reedy, but occasionally sprinkled with gum trees, and now and then offering glimpses of forest scenery of a more open kind than the dense forests which distinguish the lower part of the river.
Wednesday, September 21.—We took on board wood and played some games of quoits; leaving Mr. Hogg’s station about noon. The river, as we advanced, passes through a flat but pleasing and open country, with occasional patches of reeds. “Snags” became rather frequent in this part, and doubtless, if the stream were low, would seem almost to interlace its bed; otherwise, the river is broad and fine. About dusk, we stopped for some wood at Gannewarra, the lands of a Mr. Campbell. This—about six tons weight—employed all hands yesterday; the Captain and Mr. Jamieson proceeding up to the house. The following morning, we found that Mr. Campbell had invited the whole party to his dwelling; and about ten o’clock, the arrival of eight horses and a double gig enabled every one to accept the invitation. To reach the settlement, distant about three miles from the river, we passed through a forest of fine open glades of very lofty timber, and partook of an excellent early dinner in Mr. Campbell’s rude but commodious habitation. Then we had some music from the piano, which must have tended to enliven us after a month’s imprisonment on board the steamer. Somewhat late, the boat of the Lady Augusta arrived with three of the party, who had pulled up the winding creek on which the settlement stands. Nothing occurred in the way of adventure, but the destruction of the shafts of Mr. Campbell’s gig; which, entrusted to a black, got smashed by the horse running into an adjacent pile of wood. Fortunately, no one was within. In the afternoon, we rode back, accompanied by Miss ——, Mrs. Campbell’s pretty sister, who remained on board, as also Mr. Campbell. This gentleman is the possessor of 4,000 or 5,000 head of cattle and 10,000 sheep, and has been in the colony eleven years.
Friday morning (September 23rd) was distinguished by the fall of two majestic trees, each exceeding 110 feet in height, and which, hollowed by age, had been set on fire, and then partially sawn asunder. The effect was very grand, for, truly, “great was the fall thereof.” About eleven, accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Campbell and Miss C., we steamed a few miles up the river, returning to drop them near Gannewarra, where their horses, brought down by some natives, took them home.