Our own favorite hike was that which took us southward from Challes-les-Eaux, along the main road with the mountains on either side and in front of us—past the ruins of a picturesque chapel, destroyed by Napoleon Bonaparte when he, too, crossed the Alps; up the hill to the little village of Myans resting at the foot of Mount Granier. For all of the four miles from Challes-les-Eaux to Myans, the life one looks upon seems to have moved not one pace forward for many centuries. Ancient customs in life and houses make up the picture and yet withal one finds a charming hospitality native to these people so far removed from the hurry and fret of life. But we hiked those four miles to visit the Church of Myans with its Black Madonna that has reposed there for so many centuries, and has become a famous place of pilgrimage for many French people. Much of tradition and history wraps itself around the Black Madonna. Many years ago a landslide came to this section. One looks up and sees how absolutely bare it has left one side of Mt. Granier. We are told that the landslide destroyed everything except the church—even a part of it was destroyed, but the Black Madonna and the praying monks at its altar were not hurt. This Madonna that in all probability came from Spain, is one of the few of its kind saved in the general destruction of the Black Madonnas as ordered by Napoleon. The Virgin and child are life size and wrought out of black ebony. Her robe is of gold and on her head is a crown in which are embedded priceless jewels. She is very sacred to the villagers and to all of Catholic faith. One finds there many photographs and relics left by pilgrims who have come for healing. But the chief interest to us lay in the finely chiseled black faces of mother and child to whom so many devoutly kneel.
Eight days filled with hikes, such as we have described, games, entertainments of various kinds and music always at hand, were usually sufficient to re-invigorate the soldier and send him away glad and grateful for abundant life, lovely nature and warm-hearted friends. The Y folk worked hard to strike a high note for the future of these soldiers by teaching them how to rightly interpret and use their wonderful “overseas” experience.
Just here may we say that with both Mrs. Curtis and Mrs. Hunton were associated the finest types of Y men to be found in France. Mr. William Stevenson, who had done such valuable work at Montoir, brought to the Leave Area, all his fine ideals, which, with his hard work and pleasant manners, gave him great success. Mr. Matthew Bullock, who had gone over the top with the 15th New York, because of his football fame at Dartmouth, was well known to the soldiers. His strong helpful personality also counted for much in the lives of the men who visited the Leave Area. There was Mr. Henry Dunn who had come over from the army and who conducted the hikes. We have never since met a man who was at Challes-les-Eaux that he has not asked for Mr. Dunn. Messrs. Watkins and Shockley, just as fine and energetic and beloved by the men, formed the group working at Challes-les-Eaux. At Chambery Mr. William Anderson was not only business manager, but the sympathetic, understanding friend of all. There were also Mr. Scroggins, who hiked with the men and who will ever live in their memory; Lieut. Garrie Moore, who having done successful boy’s work for the International Committee of the Young Men’s Christian Association in the United States, came over from the army to give the benefit of his knowledge to the Y in France, and Messrs. Kindal and Parks, who did such successful athletic work. All these men gave the very best in them to the soldiers who came under their care in the Leave Area.
It was a kind providence that sent Captain Arthur Spingarn to the Leave Area. The true friend of the colored people in the United States, he was no less so as a soldier in France. Thoroughly fine in spirit and personality, he was at all times an inspiration and help to the colored secretaries working under his guidance.
The Leave Area is but a memory, but it is a beautiful one, linking thousands of soldiers and welfare workers in a chain of comradeship that cannot be broken. It was the mountain of vision and hope in France for those who reached it. It was the balm in Gilead.
VIVE LA FRANCE