Our author’s general remarks on the properties of food are condensed from Galen’s work. (De Prob. p. Al. suc.) Horace agrees with Galen and our author in condemning the mixture of various articles of food. (Satir. ii, 2.) The arguments for and against this practice are very ingeniously stated by Macrobius. (Saturn. vii, 5, 6.) It appears that Asclepiades maintained the opinion that a multifarious diet is most easily digested. (Celsus, iii, 6.)
The ancients had the following meals during a day corresponding to those now in use: breakfast, jentaculum, ἀκράτισμα; dinner, or rather lunch, prandium, ἄριστον; soirée, merenda, ἑσπέρισμα; supper, cœna, δεῖπνον. To these may be added the commissatio, κῶμος, which was a sort of jollification after the great meal or supper. See Athenæus (lib. i); Jo. Bruyer (de Re Cibar. iii, i); Lambinus (in Plut. Truculent, ac. i, sc. 7, l. 16); Potter (Arch. Græc. iv, 16.) The common hour of breakfast was about 7 o’clock a.m., of dinner about 3 p.m.; and of supper about 8 p.m. The practice, however, of taking so many meals appears to have been disapproved of by the physicians and savans: for we find Actuarius discussing the question whether it be proper to eat twice or only once in the day; and Galen decidedly recommends people not to take food in general oftener than twice. Cicero even forbids to take two full meals in a day. (Tuscul. Quæst. v.) Hippocrates speaks with disapprobation of the practice of eating a full dinner. (De Vet. Med.) Suetonius makes it a reproach to Domitian that he dined fully. (In Domit.) Haly Abbas enters into a full examination of the question with regard to the number of meals. Some, he says, eat only once in the day, some twice, and others three times. He advises those persons who are actively employed not to dine, because, if obliged to take exercise immediately afterwards, the body will be loaded with half concocted chyle. Upon the whole he prefers supper to dinner. (Pract. i, 13.) Alsaharavius considers one meal in the day not sufficient for persons of a gross habit of body. He advises persons not to change even a bad regimen too suddenly. Rhases remarks, that to take another supply of food before a preceding meal is digested, will prove highly prejudicial to the health.
From the views of domestic life given in the Greek novels we are inclined to think that the supper was the only meal which all the members of a family of the better class partook of together. See in particular Achilles Tatius (pluries.) The breakfast and dinner were light meals, consisting of bread or cheese dipped in wine. (Apul. Metam. and Martial Epigr.)
The ancient physicians attached great importance to the proper regulation of the diet. Galen seriously admonishes his readers not to eat thoughtlessly, like brute beasts, but to consider attentively what kinds of food and drink they find from experience to be prejudicial to them. (De Sanit. tuenda, vi, 13.)
According to Athenæus, a good physician ought to be a good cook. (Deipnos. vii.) Upon the authority of Daphnus, the Ephesian physician, he decides that night is the most proper time for taking the supper or principal meal, because, says he, the moon promotes putrescency, and digestion is a species of putrefaction. (vii, 2.)
The processes which food undergoes in the body from its first introduction to its complete assimilation are stated in a very scientific manner by Macrobius. In the first place, he says, it is dissolved in the stomach, as much of it at least as is digestible, and that which is not soluble passes down to the intestine, while the chyme, or portion which has been dissolved, passes to the liver, there to undergo the second process of digestion, namely, sanguification, or conversion into blood. It then passes into the arteries or veins, where it undergoes its third species of digestion, namely, purification, by having its recrementitious particles sent off in the form of bile and urine. It is then conveyed to the different parts of the body where the fourth process of digestion is accomplished, namely, assimilation, by which it is converted into the different substances of which the body is composed. (Saturnal. vii, 4.)
SECT. LXXIV.—ON POT-HERBS.
The lettuce is manifestly refrigerant and moistening; it is therefore soporific, and, compared with other pot-herbs, nutritious, forming blood of a very good quality. The endive is refrigerant and moistening, but less so than the lettuce. The mallows cool but not obviously: they rather moisten and thereby loosen the belly; and this they do by means of the viscid juice which they contain. The beet is detergent, and thereby softens the belly; but when eaten in great quantity it occasions pain of the stomach: it removes obstructions of the liver and spleen. The cabbage, when twice boiled before it is eaten, binds the belly, but when only once boiled for a short time, it rather loosens, if eaten with oil, sauce, or salts; as its juice, still more than the dried lentil, is of a purgative quality; and in particular the sea-cabbage is laxative of the belly, being manifestly saltish and bitter. The sea-purslane tree, possessing stronger saline qualities, loosens the belly, and agrees better with the stomach than the cabbage, from having a moderate astringency; it is also fitted for forming milk and semen. The blite and orache (atriplex hortensis) and such like are succulent and laxative, but not nutritious. All the thorny tribe, such as the cardoons, the atractylis, and such like are stomachic, except the cinara, for, being hard, it forms bad chyme; and, therefore, it is best to take it boiled with oil, fish-sauce, and coriander. The parsley, the horse-parsley (smyrnium olusatrum), the water parsnip, and the allsander, are diuretic; but the allsander is aromatic, and more acrid, diuretic, and emmenagogue, whereas the parsley and horse-parsley are sweeter, and, therefore, agree better with the stomach. The rocket (brassica eruca) is hot, and forms semen; and, therefore, rouses to venery and occasions headachs. The cress, basil (ocimum), and mustard are hot and acrid, particularly the cress; but all are of difficult digestion, injure the stomach, and supply unwholesome juices. But the nettle is attenuant, laxative, and of little nourishment. The toothpick-fennel is like the shepherd’s needle, possessing astringent and bitter qualities in no small degree; it is beneficial to the stomach, so that those who have lost their appetite may eat it with advantage in vinegar; but it supplies little nourishment to the body. All the wild pot-herbs, as they are called, contain very bad juices. Capers, however, whet the appetite, remove obstructions of the liver and spleen, and evacuate phlegm. They are to be used with vinegar and honey, or with vinegar and oil, before taking any other food.
Commentary. Athenæus remarks that the use of pot-herbs, as articles of food, appears to have been very ancient, since several of them are mentioned by Homer. (Deipnos, i, 29.) Diphilus says, “all pot-herbs in general contain little nutriment, are attenuant, engender bad juices, swim in the stomach, and are of difficult digestion.” (Deipnos, ii, 28.) Actuarius states, that pot-herbs in general form a thin and watery blood, compared with that from thicker articles of food.
The ancients ate their pot-herbs with much oil, and generally a liberal allowance of hot spices. See Apicius (iii.) A sauce from pickled fish, vinegar, or old wine, was often added to the preparation. The poet Juvenal makes mention of a miser who ate his cabbage with the oil from lamps. (Sat. v, 87.) Celsus remarks of such things, “Quodcunque ex olio garove estur olus alienum stomacho est.”