Commentary. See Suidas (in Voce); Galen (de Alim. Facult.); Humelbergius ad Apul. (de Med. Hist. 84.) Our author’s account of the Asparagi is abridged from Galen. He remarks that the young shoots of the cabbage, called cymæ, are particularly tender. Apicius directs them to be prepared with cumin, salt, old wine, and oil; to which pepper, borage, and the like may be added.
On the Asparagi, see Athenæus. (Deipnos. ii.)
The plant now commonly known by the name of asparagus is said by Simeon Seth to be so nutritious that it deserves to hold an intermediate place between pot-herbs and flesh. He remarks, that it is diuretic, and imparts its smell to the urine. The wild asparagus is called corruda by Cato, Columella, and Pliny.
SECT. LXXVI.—ON HERBS HAVING ESCULENT ROOTS.
The bunias or turnip, when eaten after being twice boiled, is nutritious, no less so than other herbs, but when frequently taken it engenders thick juices. The bulbi are astringent and detergent, whet the appetite, strengthen the stomach, and evacuate the viscid humours contained in the chest. When twice boiled, they are more nourishing, but less expectorant, having lost their bitter principle. They are productive of semen, and aphrodisiacal when liberally used, and occasion flatulence and griping. When eaten with fish-sauce and oil, they are very sweet, do not create flatulence, are nutritious and digestible. The garden and wild carrot and the caraway have roots which are less nutritious than turnip, but hot, decidedly aromatic, and diuretic. But when used too freely, they supply bad juices, and become of difficult digestion, like other roots. Some call the wild carrot daucus; it is evidently more diuretic than the other. The radish is of an attenuant and heating nature; but may be eaten before other food along with vinegar and fish-sauce, to loosen the bowels, but by no means after a meal. The onion, garlic, leek, and dog-leek (ampeloprason), being of an acrid nature, warm the body, attenuate and cut the thick humours contained in it; when twice boiled, they give little nourishment, but when unboiled they do not nourish at all. The garlic is more deobstruent and diaphoretic than the others; and the dog-leek, being wild, is drier than the common leek. Regarding pot-herbs in general, the raw, when eaten, furnish worse juices than the boiled, as they have more excrementitious juice. But those which are prepared for pickles with brine or vinegar and salt are stomachic, and whet the appetite, and discuss crude humours; but are of difficult digestion, and supply bad juices when too freely taken.
Commentary. Galen thus delivers the general character of these substances: The roots of pot-herbs which are acrid, such as those of onions, leeks, garlic, radish, and carrot, contain bad juices; but those of turnips, rapes, and caraways hold an intermediate place between things of good and of bad juices.
It is well known that the Romans had two kinds of herbs with esculent roots, called the napus and rapum, and that they are generally admitted to have been two species of the turnip. See Columella (de R. Rust. ii, 10); Pliny (H. N. xviii, 13) and the note of Harduin; Sprengel (R. H. H. t. i.) The term bunias occurs first in Nicander; and that it was synonymous with the gongylis is declared by Galen and our author; and, further, that it was the brassica napobrassica L., or wild navew, is admitted by all the late authorities on classical botany, with the exception of Dierbach, who most unaccountably contends that it is the B. oleracea. Galen says that unless well boiled it is indigestible, flatulent, and bad for the stomach. Seth assigns it the same qualities as our author. All account it diuretic and aphrodisiacal. Apicius directs the rapa and napi to be eaten with cumin, rue, vinegar, oil, &c. (iii, 13.) Cato the Censor was very fond of turnips, and used to prepare them with his own hands. It appears from Athenæus that the ancients frequently ate their turnips roasted. They also ate turnips prepared as a pickle with vinegar and mustard at the commencement of a feast, as whetters. (Deipnos. iv, 11.) According to Diphilus, in this state they are more attenuant than in their natural state. (Deipnos. ix, 8.)
It is not well ascertained what the esculent bulbi of the ancients were. Harduin conjectures that they were a delicious kind of onions. Matthiolus and Nonnius are wholly undecided. Sprengel inclines, with Dalecampius and Sibthorp, to think that they were a species of muscari, or musk hyacinth. The account given of them by Serapion, who calls them capæ sine tunicis, agrees better with the conjecture of Harduin. Eustathius likewise says that the bulbus was a wild onion. (Ad Iliad. xiii, 589.) Columella, Varro, Apicius, and Martial call them aphrodisiacal.
The staphylinus was probably the carrot, or daucus carota, but we are inclined to think that it also comprehended the parsnip. See Athen. (Deip. ix, 2.) Apicius, among other methods of dressing it, directs it to be done with salt, pure oil, and vinegar.
The sisarum was probably the garden parsnip, pastinaca sativa L.