(Sat. ii, 4.)
The poets make frequent mention of mushrooms as a delicacy at the tables of gourmands. See in particular Juvenal (Sat. v, 145.)
Apicius directs us to preserve truffles, by laying them in a vessel along with alternate layers of sawdust, and then covering up the mouth of the vessel with parget. On the mode of raising them, see ‘Geopon.’ (xii, 41.) In the days of Juvenal, the Roman gourmands appear to have attached more importance to the truffles than the corn which they were supplied with from Africa:
“Tibi habe frumentum, Alledius inquit,
O Lybie; disjunge boves dum tubera mittas.”
(Sat. v, 116.)
Ludovicus Nonnius confesses himself unable to determine what species of mushroom the amanitæ of our author were. Seth makes no distinction between them and the mycetæ. See further Athen. (Deip. ii, 7, ed. Schweig.)
SECT. LXXVIII.—ON THE FRUMENTACEOUS ARTICLES OF FOOD.
Of the frumentacea, the chondrus is nutritious, and forms viscid chyme; but a watery preparation is unwholesome, because, as it thickens quickly, it remains raw and unconcocted; but the juice of it is better when it is properly boiled whole, like a ptisan. The alica, in other respects, resembles the chondrus, only that it binds the bowels more. Wheat, when boiled and eaten, is of difficult digestion and flatulent; but if digested it proves a very strong food. When made into bread, its indigestible and flatulent properties are removed by the leaven and salt which are added. The most nutritious of all the kinds of bread is that made from siligo; next, that from the similago; and, third, that which is composed of the entire grain. Coarse bread is less nutritious, but more laxative than the other kinds. Starch gives little nourishment, like washed bread. Barley is of a cold nature and detergent: when boiled like a ptisan it humectates; but when toasted, as in polenta, it dries. Polenta in summer, drunk with water before the bath, quenches thirst. Barley-bread is dry and of little nourishment. The pudding (maza) is of more difficult digestion, and more flatulent than barley-bread, and when it receives a little honey is laxative. Oats are heating and of little nourishment. Millet and panic are cold and dry, contain little nourishment, and bind the bowels. But the millet is in every respect superior to the panic. Rice is of difficult digestion, contains little nourishment, and binds the bowels. A ptisan is prepared, by adding one part of it to fifteen parts of water, then mixing a moderate quantity of oil, and after it swells up, some vinegar. When properly boiled, a small quantity of salt is to be thrown in, and sometimes leeks or dill may be added. Oats and chondrus may be prepared in like manner as a ptisan.
Commentary. On the cerealia consult in particular Theophrastus (H. P. iii); Dioscorides (ii); Galen (de Aliment. i); Pliny (H. N. xviii); Serapion (de Simpl.); and of the modern authorities see, in particular, Harduin (Notæ in Plin. l. c.); Paucton (Metrologie); Dickson (Husbandry of the Ancients); Sprengel (R. H. H. and Notæ in Diascor. l. c.); Ludovicus Nonnius (de Re Cibaria, i); and J. Bruyerinus Campegius (de Re Cibaria.)