The maza, as Zeunius explains it, consisted of the flour of toasted barley pounded with some liquor, such as water, oil, milk, oxycrate, oxymel, or honied water. Galen calls it flatulent and unwholesome food. Hesiod recommends the maza, or cake prepared with milk, as an article of food during the heat of the dog-days. (Opera et Dies, 588.) In the Prytoneum or House of Refuge, at Athens, persons were fed on it. (Athen. Deipnos. iv.)
The bellaria, called also placentæ, liba, and crustulæ, by the Romans, and by the Greeks πέμματα, ἴτρια, and πλάκουντες, were cakes of various kinds, prepared with flour, water, oil, honey, and sometimes fruits. See Athenæus (Deipnos. xiv.) They were served up towards the conclusion of a banquet, as appears evident from Matron’s Parody, (in Athenæus iv. 5.) The obelius panis, mentioned by him in the 3d book, is supposed by Ludovicus Nonnius to have been a species of pastry. According to Schweighäuser the French oublie is derived from it. (Ad Athen. iii, 76.)
The bucellatum, mentioned by Ammianus Marcellinus and Ælius Spartianus, was a species of bread used by the Roman soldiers, and appears to have resembled our ship-biscuit. (See Not. Gronovii, in Amm. Marcell. xvii, 8.) This kind of bread was called δίπυρος by the Greeks (see Hesychius), that is to say, bis coctus, and hence the English biscuit.
SECT. LXXIX.—ON PULSE.
Of pulse, the lentil forms a bad chyme and melancholic humours; but especially it, when twice boiled, binds the bowels; yet its soup, when drunk with oil and sauce, is rather laxative. But savory or pennyroyal ought to be added to it because it is flatulent. The common bean is light, flatulent, and detergent; but the Egyptian bean is much more succulent and excrementitious than ours. The pea is spongy, but not so flatulent. The chick-peas are flatulent and detergent, promote the formation of semen, are aphrodisiacal, and lithontriptic; when toasted, they part with their flatulence, but are of difficult digestion. Lupines are difficult to digest and evacuate, and produce a crude chyme. The fenugreek warms and loosens the bowels when taken before a meal. Tares and fasels, having been previously macerated in water so as to shoot out roots, are laxative of the bowels when taken before a meal with sauce; and are more nutritious than the fenugreek. But the fasels called dolichi, when eaten green with their husks, are more excrementitious.
Commentary. Hippocrates, Rhases, and other of the ancient authors agree, that pulse, in general, are nutritious. All held that they are flatulent, excrementitious, and aphrodisiacal. According to Plutarch it was on account of their aphrodisiacal qualities that the Egyptian priests forbade the use of them. Some assign this as the reason why Pythagoras “ventri indulsit non omne legumen.” Apollonius Dyscolus says that he did so because they are flatulent, difficult to digest, and occasion disturbed dreams. (Hist. Mirab. 46.) This seems the most likely reason; but Plutarch, Iamblichus, and Porphyry think they see more recondite meanings in the Pythagorean interdiction. Actuarius remarks that all kinds of pulse are to be eaten in their green juicy state. In an ancient proverb, preserved by Athenæus, it is said that “figs are to be eaten after fish, and pulse after flesh.”
Galen speaks of lentils in much the same terms as Paulus. He particularly disapproves of the practice, which he says was common in his time, of eating them with sodden wine. Rhases says that they are of a cold, desiccative, and excrementitious nature. Actuarius calls them the worst of the legumina. Athenæus mentions that the Egyptians lived much upon lentils. (iv.) Martial, in like manner, speaks of them as an Egyptian food.
All the commentators are puzzled to determine what the ancient faba was. We are inclined to think, with Dickson, that Theophrastus’s description of it applies best to our small bean. The Egyptian bean, according to Sprengel, was the nelumbium speciosum. Galen mentions that beans were much used by the gladiators, for giving them flesh, but adds that it was not firm or compact. Actuarius states that they are nutritious, but dissuades from using them freely, because of their flatulence. According to Celsus, both beans and lentils are stronger food than peas. Seth agrees with Galen, that the flesh formed from them is flabby and soft. Galen directs beans to be fried or boiled with onions, whereby they will be rendered less flatulent. (De Alim. Facult. i.)
It is probable that the faseolus was the kidney-bean, or phaseolus communis L. Harduin calls it feverole in French. Rhases says that fasels are flatulent, and fatten the body. Pliny remarks that they are eaten with their husks. He alludes, we suppose, to the variety of them called Dolichi. Galen says that they are more laxative and nutritious, but not so flatulent as peas. Oribasius says that they hold an intermediate place between those substances which give much and those which afford little nourishment. Actuarius says they are the worst kind of beans, and that being heating and excrementitious they are apt to disorder the bowels. Tares, as Galen and Oribasius mention, were sometimes used for food during a famine.
All the authorities give peas much the same characters as Paulus does. Galen mentions the method of steeping chiches in water, and getting them to germinate before using them for food. Are the bons vivans of the present day acquainted with this method of making peas tender and soft? The ancients were also in the practice of preparing these seeds for sowing in much the same manner. (Geopon. ii, 36.) See also Pliny (xviii, 13.) We are inclined to think that Virgil alludes to this practice (Georg. i, 193); but Dr. Hunter has put a different interpretation on this passage. The species of pea which grows plentifully in Sicily, and is called pisum ochrys, is said to hold a middle place as to quality.