Persius speaks of the thrush as being a much-esteemed delicacy. (Sat. vi.) Horace also says that there is nothing better than a fat thrush. (Epist. i, 15.) See Aristoph. (Nubes); Athenæus (Deipn. ii.) It is worthy of remark that, although the thrush be by no means a delicate morsel in the north of Europe, it is very delicious in Italy and Spain. It feeds on juniper berries, grapes, and the like. The receipts of Apicius for dressing thrushes, and other small birds, contain spices, aromatics, honey, wine, pickle, and oil. Averrhoes says that their flesh is drier, more aromatic, but grosser than that of pigeons. The Romans bestowed great pains upon feeding thrushes, as we can learn from Varro and Columella. The species commonly used by them for food was the fieldfare, or turdus pilaris. They also ate blackbirds. Galen speaks favorably of sparrows. Other small birds, as the lark and the siskin (spinus), are noticed by Athenæus as being sometimes eaten. Galen recommends the lark in colic affections. In general, however, the small birds were reckoned indigestible. It is related of the gourmand Clodius Æsopus that, wishing to make a great display of prodigality at a feast, he caused song birds to be served up at it in place of beccafichi. See Valerius Maximus (ix, s), and Pliny (H. N. x, 71.) Even the nightingale was sacrificed to this monstrous taste. (Horat. Sat. ii, 3, 245.)
Martial intimates that when he could get a fat turtle to dine upon he was indifferent about other delicacies. According to Averrhoes, it is of a hot nature, and has a wonderful effect in sharpening the understanding. Apicius directs us to dress it like the partridge. Galen states that the turtle, partridge, and all fowls which are of a dry nature, should be suspended for a day before they are eaten.
Galen mentions that the flesh of pheasants resembles that of domestic hens, but is more nutritious and savoury. Simeon Seth says that it is wholesome, easily digested, and forms good blood. Averrhoes prefers it to all other fowls. The tetrao, which is mentioned by Pliny and Athenæus, is generally supposed to be the bustard; but Bellonius and Ludovicus Nonnius take it for the fasiano negro of the Italians, or the wood pheasant.
Galen and our author have omitted to take notice of quails. Simeon Seth says that their flesh is heating, coarse, indigestible, and unwholesome. Rhases, however, says of the quail, that in lightness it is second only to the starling; that it is not very excrementitious, nor accounted very heating. Averrhoes says that it is of a moderate temperament, but somewhat heating; that it is delicate, forms good chyme, and is excellent food for persons in good health, and for convalescents. Lucretius and Galen mention that the quail can live upon hellebore.
Q. Hortensius is “damned to everlasting fame,” for having first presented the peacock at his table. (Varro, de Agricult. iii; Macrobius, Satur. iii, 13; Pliny, H. N. x, 20; Ælianus, H. A. v, 25; Tertulianus, de Pallio.) It came afterwards to be thought an exquisite delicacy, although Horace had declared of it that, were it not for its price, it would not be thought superior to the common domestic fowl. (Sat. ii, 2.) Simeon Seth, like Galen and our author, says that its flesh is indigestible and excrementitious. Apicius directs us to dress it like the thrush. The poet Juvenal asserts that sudden deaths are occasioned by the indigestion arising from eating peacocks, (Sat. i.) It appears, from Varro and Pliny, that the Romans reared them in great numbers for the table.
The ostrich is often mentioned by the ancient authors as an article of food, although, as Galen says, it be excrementitious and indigestible; and hence, most probably, it is proscribed in Scripture. Agatharcides makes mention of a savage race of people, who were called Ostrich-eaters, (Ap. Photium.) The “afra avis,” mentioned by Horace, is said by his commentator, Acron, to have been the ostrich. Porphyrion, however, rather supposes it to be the gallina numidica, or guinea-hen. It was the same as the meleagris, which Schneider (ad Ælian. N. A. iv, 42), and Schweighäuser (ad Athen. xiv, 20), agree in referring to the pintada, or guinea-hen. Apicius directs us to dress it with pepper, lovage, thyme or savory, honey, mustard, vinegar, pickle, and oil. Rhases says that its flesh is very coarse.
The otis was the otis tarda, or bustard. Xenophon, who gives a graphic description of the mode of hunting it in Persia, says that its flesh is most delicious. Galen and Simeon Seth say that its flesh is intermediate between the goose and the crane. Apicius gives very complicated receipts for dressing it. It is the tetrax of Nemesianus.
The flesh of the domestic fowls, says Simeon Seth, is of easy digestion, and contains good juices, especially the flesh of those which are beginning to lay eggs. Chickens, he adds, are of easy digestion, and form blood of moderate consistence, neither very thin nor too thick: they are excellent food for persons who do not take strong exercise. It appears from Martial that the Romans were fond of capons. (xiii.) Both Aristotle and Pliny mention that cocks were converted into capons by means of a heated iron.
The ficedula, called συκαλὶς by Aristotle, was much sought after by the Romans. It was the beccafigo of the modern Italians, who are still very fond of it. Its flesh being fat, it was dressed with much pepper, as we learn from Martial and Petronius Arbiter.
Galen and Simeon Seth agree that the flesh of geese is indigestible and excrementitious, and nearly allied to the ostrich. It would appear, from Odyss. xix, 536, that tame geese were reared for food in the heroic ages.