Of the testacea described by the ancient writers on dietetics, we are inclined to refer the chema to the genus chema of modern naturalists, comprehending several species of the cockle: the purpura to the helix ianthina or purple fish, in particular: the solen to the genus solen or bag-fish: the spondylus to the genus spondylus or prickly oyster: the buccina to the buccinum harpa: the cochlea to the helix pomatia or edible snail: the astacus to the astacus fluviatilis or crawfish: the pagurus to the cancer pagurus or common crab: and the cancer to some variety of the same: the locusta to more than one species of the locusta or lobster; the squilla to the crangon vulgaris Cuv. or shrimp: and the leo marinus indefinitely to the genus cancer. We think it but right, however, to confess that our own acquaintance with this department of natural history is not so extensive as to warrant us in speaking authoritatively on these matters.
We shall now briefly notice the ancient opinions on their dietetical qualities. From Athenæus, we can only find room for the following extract: “Regarding the testacea (ὀστρακόδερμα) the Siphnian Diphilus writes thus: ‘Of the testacea, the squilla, astacus, locusta aquatica, cancer, and leo marinus, are of the same genus, but differ from one another: the leo is larger than the astacus; the locusta is more fleshy than the cancer; and the cancer, or crab, is heavy and indigestible.’ Mnesitheus, the Athenian, in his work on ‘Dietetics,’ says, that the locusta, cancer, squilla, and the like, are all of difficult digestion, and yet they are much easier digested than other fishes.”
Galen’s account of them is interesting, and our author’s is abridged from it. In general, he remarks, those which have hard flesh are most nutritious, but indigestible. They all contain saltish juices which are of a laxative nature. He says of the crustacea that they have all firm flesh, and are, therefore, difficult to digest, but nutritious. Aëtius and Oribasius copy from him without the slightest alteration of any consequence.
Frequent mention of the squilla occurs in the works of Horace, Juvenal, and Martial, as a favorite article of food. A poet in Athenæus says it should be prepared with fig leaves.
According to Dioscorides and Alexander, the echinus is stomachic and diuretic. Ælian, in like manner, calls it a restorative to a weak stomach. (N. A. xiii.)
Actuarius says that the crustacea hold an intermediate place between the fishes and mollusca; that they are, therefore, not so digestible as the mollusca, and form purer and thinner blood; that the testacea, as they get no exercise, are less proper; and that all form a thin and watery blood.
We need scarcely remark, that the Romans esteemed the cochlea, i. e. limaçon, or white snail, as an exquisite delicacy.
Simeon Seth’s account is entirely borrowed from Galen.
The receipts of Apicius for dressing the locusta and carabus contain pepper, cumin, rue, mint, vinegar, wine, and oil.