Chapter on Pilgrim's Salutation.
I am not unmindful of all the opportunities I have had to see God's beautiful world, and I think little has escaped me that has been in my line of vision.
Of all countries, I like England best—yes, England! dear, green, blossoming England; of all cities, Paris and Florence; of all churches, St. Mark's in Venice; of picturesque places, Killarney's lakes and the Lake of Lucerne; of awesome grandeur in nature, the Giant's Causeway and on the heights of Switzerland; of man's work in art and architecture combined, Fontainebleau, Versailles, the Bargello in Florence and Raphael's Stanza and Loggie in the Vatican; of collected art in sculpture, that found in Rome; of collected art in painting, that found in the galleries of Florence; of the sublime in nature, the sunsets on the Mediterranean, moonlight on the Arno, the Alpine glow on the Rigi, and sunrise over the Acropolis; of all peoples, the upper class of Irish and English. And the happiest moments spent among this array were those when reading my letters from home.
I have been treated with charming cordiality everywhere and have met clever, cultured people, both foreign and American. I have seen—and heard—a few Americans, the sort whose bragging brings the blood to the face, but I am happy to tell you they have been few.
I should advise any one to come here with the intention of enjoying and not of criticising. If things are desired as they are in America, stay there.
One comes to a foreign country to see things as they are, and, most of all, to see things which we have not.
The science of comprehensive observation should be taught in every school, for few know how to observe understandingly.
Culture comes high, at the easiest, and in no way can one absorb so much or so well as by observation while traveling.
GIBRALTAR:
Soon after the last letter was posted, a note and a cable were handed me by the purser.