FROM this point I shall set down the days as they are recorded in my diary.
Sunday, March 18. Start at 9 A.M., halt at 8:30 P.M. Make 46 kilometers. Highest temperature 21°, lowest 3°. Cloudy all day, clear in evening. Just a few drops of rain in the afternoon. Strong northeast wind, which develops at 2:30 into a sand-storm. Wind drops at sunset and gets up again at eight in the evening. The sun not visible and the guide’s course not so straight as usual, as shown by the compass bearings which I take often during the day. At 5:30 the sun appears and he corrects his course; at 7:30 he is traveling by the North Star, which the Bedouins call El Jadi. The ground is generally the same as yesterday’s though slightly undulating. At intervals all day we come across patches of big dark-colored pebbles.
In the morning there was excitement when we sighted on the horizon the series of hazy dots that meant the approaching vanguard of a caravan. My binoculars were brought into play and passed around among the men. Rifles were unslung from their places on the camels’ backs, and the Tebus ran to get their spears. The men ranged themselves on the side of the caravan nearest the on-comers and held themselves alert until we should find out whether they were friendly or hostile. It did not take long to recognize them for friends. Then men from each party met and squatted down between the two caravans to exchange the news, while the two lines of camels plodded past. Tongues flew as they heard and told who had been married, who was dead, who had made money, what new feuds had arisen, or what old ones had been ended. Then the envoys sprang up, bade each other God-speed, and hastened after their respective caravans. (This is the desert wireless at work.)
Monday, March 19. Start at 8:15 A.M., halt at 8:30 P.M. Make 49 kilometers. Highest temperature 22°, lowest 5°. Weather fine and clear. Strong northeast wind which drops at midday. Few white clouds in the afternoon. Sun is very warm, making our progress slow, but evening is cool and the pace is quickened. Ground very flat, hard sand covered with fine gravel. At six in the evening cross a slight depression, with a patch of gray stone on the right and a white stone on our left about 2 kilometers distant.
All of us, men and camels, were getting into our stride. The Bedouins and Tebus indulged in foot-races and played practical jokes. The Tebus are simple, primitive fellows, with delightfully naïve habits of mind. Being poor, they take the best of care of what possessions they have. They dress in a simple cotton shirt and pair of drawers, and devote much attention to making these garments last as long as possible. When a Tebu rides a camel, for example, he takes off his drawers to save wear and tear, and hangs them on his camel’s back. When he sleeps also he removes his garments to protect them from friction against the sand and wraps himself in his fur cloak.
THE LAKE AT KUFRA
The water is salt and fed with salt springs. There are no fish and only a few water hens and ducks. The lake is about two or three square miles in area.
While one of the Tebus was riding that day some of the Bedouins took his drawers and hid them. When he alighted and looked for his garment, he immediately feared that it had dropped off and lay somewhere in the desert along our track. Without a moment’s hesitation he set out on the back track, running briskly in search of his precious possession. He had become a tiny figure in the vast expanse of sand before we took pity on him and fired shots to call him to return. He turned reluctantly and soon rejoined us with downcast face. But the merriment of the jokers told him that something was up, and when his drawers were produced he was too pleased to get them back to resent the joke.
The previous night some of the camels paid a visit to my tent and threatened to have it down on top of me. They are clever beasts. They like to scratch their necks on the tent-ropes, and when all the camp is asleep they hobble in quest of this innocent form of diversion. First the camel sticks his head through the flap of my tent to see if I am awake. If he does not hear me resent his intrusion, he then knows I am asleep, and out he backs and sets to scratching vigorously. Soon he is joined by others, and I awake under the impression that my tent is being assailed by a violent storm.