Madrid: an historical description and handbook of the Spanish capital

by Albert Frederick Calvert

The seats are divided into boxes and open galleries, the boxes, or palcos de sombra—seats in the shade—being in the best position for watching the contests during the hot months. In early spring a seat in the sun is to be preferred, for the air of Madrid is keen at this season.

The sight of the Plaza de Toros on the day of a great corrida leaves an impression that will not quickly fade from the memory. In the palcos are the rank, beauty, and wealth of Madrid, while packed in the humbler seats is a vast mass of the people. The ladies wear mantillas, and carry fans, which flutter the whole time; and animation, devoid of any trace of rough behaviour, characterises the immense crowd. A tense hush falls on the throng when the first bull of the day bounds in from the dark toril, and confronts his gaily-attired persecutors in the big arena. During the fight the spectators grow excited almost to the verge of frenzy. There is a roar of voices, and the sound of canes struck upon the benches, an indescribable din, which reaches its height when a popular espada delivers a dexterous thrust of the blade into the neck of the baffled and infuriated toro. While the combat proceeds, there are alternating comments of “Bravo toro,” as the bull shows courage, and groans and hisses when the animal displays cowardice or apathy. Both the bull and the men must act their parts with zeal, energy and bravery, or the crowd is disappointed, and wont to express disapprobation in an unqualified manner.

On the day of a corrida Madrid is roused into a mood of joyous expectancy. The town is en fête; the streets are thronged, and every kind of vehicle is seen in the procession to the Plaza de Toros. For an hour the carriages stream in, and the crowd on foot files along to the tiers of seats. Overhead is the vivid sky and a burning sun, which brightens all that it shines upon. Thousands of fans are waving; thousands of dark eyes gleam from the palcos. Presently the music begins, from the large orchestra a stirring air thrills the arena, and almost drowns the voices of the crowd. One is reminded of a scene in the amphitheatre in the days of the grandeur of Rome, when gladiatorial contests attracted a vast concourse of all classes of the population, for the same love of daring and agility still sways the passion of the people, and the same indifference is evinced when blood flows.

The tournament opens with an imposing procession of the bull-fighters, arrayed in all the glory of their gala costumes, in which there is a plentiful glitter of tinsel, and spangles, and gold braid. Two alguaciles, or mounted men in a bygone garb of the police, ride in front of the troop of toreros. The two espadas, who are taking the leading part in the corrida to-day, come next, and they are followed by the picadores, or spearmen, who are well protected with pads and leg-guards. Next come the banderilleros or dart-throwers, a nimble company, in bright silk and velvet, and the rear of the procession is made up of muleteros, with the gaily trapped mules that are used to drag the corpses of the bulls from the ring.

A bugle note rings out like a challenge, and the key of the toril, or bulls’ den, is thrown by the President into the arena. The ring is now cleared of all the combatants except a trio of picadores, who, sitting astride their wretched nags, await the entry of the bull. Amid the hush, toro rushes into the arena, a huge black beast, with elongated horns, a thick, brawny neck, a sleek, shining coat, and a pair of flashing, angry eyes. He paws the ground, and snorts, and catching sight of the gaudy colours of the picadores, lowers his head, and charges them. His assault is received on the blunt point of the garrocha, or spear; and, incensed by the pain, he pauses, lashing his tail, and deliberating a second attack. Perchance the bull is not especially fierce or courageous. He has led a placid life on the plains, and has followed the herd-boy as sheep follow a shepherd. But to-day he must fight and die, and if he is indifferent at the sight of his assailants, means must be employed to anger him.

But a valiant bull needs no such incitement to fury. He is angry with every one, indignant at the whole proceedings, and he charges the picadores with terrific vehemence. Sometimes a rider is unhorsed, and, handicapped by his pads and protectors, he is in peril till the attendants divert the attention of toro.

The hapless horses are the worse sufferers, for they cannot escape from the ring. They serve as butts for the bull’s horns; they are frequently ripped open, and sometimes lifted off their feet by the horns of their maddened enemy. To English eyes it is a heartrending spectacle to see a sorry old horse, which has patiently served man all his life, urged up to the sharp horns of the bull, and made to receive his cruel charges. The wounded horses lie quivering and expiring in the ring; a look of supplication and suffering in their eyes fills the unaccustomed spectator with compassion, and the sight of their terrible injuries sickens the sensitive.

The banderilleros now appear, armed with steel barbed darts, adorned with coloured papers, and with coolness and dexterity, they approach toro, and throw their stinging missiles at his neck and shoulders. The bull winces, shakes his head, and turns upon his tormentors. He chases one of them across the ring; the pursued banderillero vaults over the high wooden barrier, and the horns of the bull resound against the wood with a dull crash. Another dart-thrower runs up, and deftly plants his weapons in the bull’s flesh. Again toro turns, and as he runs with lowered horns, a third banderillero stands in his course, leaps aside at the crucial instant, and delivers his darts.

An expert banderillero will sit on a chair and await the rush of toro. The agility and daring of these performers is very extraordinary. If the bull is apathetic, drastic means are used to stir his anger. The banderillas de fuego, or fire darts, are used to arouse his fury. These instruments of irritation are provided with explosives, which startle and infuriate the bull with their noise and their sting. Now and then, a nimble and frenzied bull, when pursuing a banderillero, will even leap over the high barrier of the arena, causing tremendous consternation among the spectators. Sometimes a plucky bull-fighter grows bolder, and dares the bull by every imaginable device until, in a fatal moment, he receives a thrust of the horn, and falls bleeding to the ground.

Before entering the perilous arena, the toreros receive the sacrament from the priest who is always in attendance at bull-fights. During the corrida the padre remains in waiting in the chapel of the Plaza de Toros, ready to minister, if need be, to a fighter borne dying from the scene.