While I have endeavoured to make the book as useful to travellers as within the prescribed limits was possible, I have essayed to give it, by means of the illustrations, a more permanent value. It is on the brush rather than on the pen that I have relied to convey an idea of the gorgeous panorama of Southern Spain, and to recall to the returned traveller his impressions of the land.
As a vade-mecum, then, for the tourist, and as an album and souvenir of the fairest portion of the realm of the Catholic King, I hope that the present volume will be of use to the public, despite the shortcomings it doubtless contains. For rendering these as few as possible, I have to thank several friends who have looked through the proofs. To one in particular, Mr. E. B. d'Auvergne, I am indebted for various scraps of original and entertaining information.
A. F. CALVERT.
| CONTENTS | |
|---|---|
| [CHAPTER I] | |
| PAGE | |
| CADIZ | [1] |
| [CHAPTER II] | |
| Seville—THE PEARL OF ANDALUSIA | [12] |
| [CHAPTER III] | |
| CORDOVA | [86] |
| [CHAPTER IV] | |
| GRANADA | [107] |
| [CHAPTER V] | |
| MALAGA | [163] |
| [CHAPTER VI] | |
| THE WAY SOUTH | [169] |
| [CHAPTER VII] | |
| THE KINGDOM OF MURCIA | [174] |
| [CHAPTER VIII] | |
| IN THE OLD KINGDOM OF VALENCIA | [186] |
| [INDEX] | |
| LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS | ||
|---|---|---|
| [1.] | Cordova—Fountain in the Patio de los Naranjos | [Frontispiece] |
| PAGE | ||
| [2.] | Ayamonte (The Gateway of Andalusia) | [8] |
| [3.] | Seville—A Street | [12] |
| [4.] | Seville—The Aceite Gate | [20] |
| [5.] | Seville—A Courtyard | [24] |
| [6.] | Seville—The Torre del Oro and the Cathedral | [28] |
| [7.] | Seville—The Giralda | [30] |
| [8.] | Seville—Gardens of the Alcazar | [34] |
| [9.] | Seville—Gardens of the Alcazar | [40] |
| [10.] | Seville—Patio de las Banderas | [44] |
| [11.] | Seville—Gardens of the Alcazar | [50] |
| [12.] | Seville—Interior of the Cathedral | [56] |
| [13.] | Seville—Patio de los Naranjos | [60] |
| [14.] | Seville—Plaza de San Fernando | [64] |
| [15.] | Seville—Casa de Pilatos | [68] |
| [16.] | Seville—Casa de Pilatos | [72] |
| [17.] | Seville—Garden of the Casa de Pilatos | [78] |
| [18.] | Seville—The Market Place | [80] |
| [19.] | Cordova—A Courtyard | [84] |
| [20.] | Cordova—Entrance to the City | [86] |
| [21.] | Cordova—Calle Cardinal Herrera | [88] |
| [22.] | Cordova—Moorish Mill | [90] |
| [23.] | Cordova—Mezquita | [92] |
| [24.] | Cordova—Patio de los Naranjos | [94] |
| [25.] | Cordova—Outer Wall of the Mosque | [96] |
| [26.] | Cordova—A Street Scene | [98] |
| [27.] | Cordova—A Street | [100] |
| [28.] | Cordova—The Bridge | [102] |
| [29.] | Cordova—Courtyard of an Inn | [104] |
| [30.] | Cordova—Old Houses near the River | [106] |
| [31.] | Granada—From the Generalife | [108] |
| [32.] | Granada—Sierra Nevada from the Alhambra Gardens | [110] |
| [33.] | Granada—Exterior of the Alhambra | [112] |
| [34.] | Granada—A Street in the Albaicin | [114] |
| [35.] | Granada—In the Market | [116] |
| [36.] | Granada—The Alhambra: The Aqueduct | [118] |
| [37.] | Granada—The Court of the Cypresses | [120] |
| [38.] | Granada—Villa on the Darro | [122] |
| [39.] | Granada—The Alhambra from San Miguel | [124] |
| [40.] | Granada—Towers of the Infantas, Alhambra | [126] |
| [41.] | Granada—Near the Alhambra | [128] |
| [42.] | Granada—Puerta del Vino, Alhambra | [130] |
| [43.] | Granada—The Alhambra: Tower of Comares | [132] |
| [44.] | Granada—The Court of the Lions: Moonlight | [136] |
| [45.] | Granada—The Generalife: Patio de la Acequia | [138] |
| [46.] | Granada—The Generalife: Court of the Cypresses | [140] |
| [47.] | Granada—Tocador de la Reina | [142] |
| [48.] | Granada—Torre de las Damas | [144] |
| [49.] | Granada—The Generalife: Court of the Cypresses | [146] |
| [50.] | Granada—Casa del Carbon | [148] |
| [51.] | Granada—Street in the Albaicin | [150] |
| [52.] | Granada—Interior of a Posada | [152] |
| [53.] | Granada—Old Houses, Cuesta del Pescado | [154] |
| [54.] | Granada—Old Ayuntamiento | [156] |
| [55.] | Granada—Street in the Old Quarter | [158] |
| [56.] | Granada—The Generalife: Patio de la Acequia | [160] |
| [57.] | Granada—A Corner in the Old Quarter | [162] |
| [58.] | Malaga—The Harbour | [164] |
| [59.] | Malaga—The Guadalmedina | [166] |
| [60.] | Malaga—A Market | [168] |
| [61.] | Malaga—Packing Lemons | [170] |
| [62.] | Ronda—The Tajo | [172] |
| [63.] | Ronda—Roman Bridges | [174] |
| [64.] | Ronda—At the Fountain | [176] |
| [65.] | Ronda—A Moorish Gateway | [180] |
| [66.] | Ronda—A Street Scene | [182] |
| [67.] | Ronda—The Market | [184] |
| [68.] | Orihuela on the River Segura | [186] |
| [69.] | Elche—A Street | [188] |
| [70.] | A Fisher Girl (Coast of Malaga) | [190] |
| [71.] | A Water Carrier | [192] |
| [72.] | Malaga—A Picador | [196] |
| [73.] | Valencia—Santa Catalina | [198] |
| [74.] | An Andalusian Dance | [200] |
| [75.] | Courting | [204] |
| [Map at end of Volume] | ||
The Illustrations in this Volume have been engraved and printed in England by
THE MENPES PRESS, London and Watford
SOUTHERN SPAIN
CHAPTER I
CADIZ
CADIZ was the prettiest of all the towns of Spain, thought Byron. I would rather say that she was the most beautiful. She rises out of the sea—the boundless salt ocean that stretches from pole to pole—and the crests of the waves which lick her feet are not whiter than her walls. And these by day are bathed in liquid gold, for the sun seems to linger here ere he says good-night to Europe. By night the city gleams like washed silver, and her sheen is more magical than that of the dark yet phosphorescent water. Of sun and sea, light and air, is Cadiz compounded. She is the Gateway of the West, not sultry and southern, but salt and windy and dazzling white. It is thus she appears to you, especially when you come to her over the sea—that sea which hereabouts has so often been splashed with British blood. How often the pale yellow cliffs of Spain to the southward, and those of the lovely shore of Algarve to the north, have reverberated with the booming of the cannon; how often the strand has been littered with dead men, whose gaping wounds the kindly ocean had washed clean! Browning's lines recur to the memory:
| "Nobly, nobly Cape St. Vincent to the north-west died away, |
| Sunset ran, one glorious blood-red, reeking into Cadiz Bay." |