LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

VALENCIA
TITLEPLATE
[General View][1]
[General View, looking South][2]
[View from the Puente del Mar][3]
[General View][4]
[View from the Puente del Mar][5]
[Entrance to the Town by the Puerta de Santa Lucia][6]
[The Fair at the Puerta de Santa Lucia][7]
[Puerta de Serranos][8]
[Puerta de Cuarte][9]
[The Market-Place][10]
[The Puente Real][11]
[Paseo de la Glorieta][12]
[Paseo de la Glorieta][13]
[Paseo de la Alameda][14]
[Fountain of the Alameda][15]
[Plaza de la Aduana][16]
[Plaza de Santo Domingo][17]
[Plaza de San Francisco][18]
[Plaza de Tétuan][19]
[Plaza de la Constitucion][20]
[Calle de la Bajada de San Francisco][21]
[Calle de San Vicente][22]
[Tros Alt][23]
[Calle de la Bolseria y Tros Alt][24]
[General View of the Cathedral][25]
[The Cathedral: Gate of the Apostles][26]
[The Cathedral: Puerta del Palau][27]
[The Cathedral: A Door][28]
[The Temple][29]
[The Miguelete][30]
[Church of Santa Catalina][31]
[Church of Santa Catalina][32]
[Church of Los Santos Juanes][33]
[Façade of San Miguel el Real][34]
[Church of Santa Cruz][35]
[Church of Santa Cruz][36]
[Entrance to the Church of San Andrés][37]
[The Campo-Santo][38]
[The Campo-Santo][39]
[The Campo-Santo][40]
[The Audiencia, old Palace of the Cortes][41]
[Royal Hall in the Audiencia, upper part][42]
[Royal Hall in the Audiencia, lower part][43]
[Interior Door of the Audiencia][44]
[The Exchange][45]
[The Exchange: Detail of the Gallery][46]
[Interior of the Exchange][47]
[Interior Door of the Exchange][48]
[Colegio del Patriarca][49]
[Courtyard in the Colegio del Patriarca][50]
[Courtyard of the University][51]
[Entrance to the Civil Hospital][52]
[Gate of Mosen S’Orrell][53]
[The Custom-House][54]
[The Archbishop’s Palace][55]
[The Bull-Ring][56]
[Tobacco Factory][57]
[A Private House][58]
[Statue of King Jaime][59]
[Statue of Ribera][60]
[Statue of St Christopher][61]
[Palace of the Marqués de Dos Aguas][62]
[Palace of the Marqués de Dos Aguas][63]
[Portal of the Palace of the Marqués de Dos Aguas][64]
[Palace of the Marqués de Ripalda][65]
[General View of Grao][66]
[Grao Harbour][67]
[Grao Harbour][68]
[Grao Harbour][69]
[Camino del Grao: Hermitage of Ave Maria][70]
[A “Tartana,” or Char-à-banc][71]
[Peasants][72]
[Peasants][73]
[Peasants][74]
[Types of Women][75]
[“Tribunal des Eaux”][76]
[Barbers on the Bridge of Serranos][77]
[Zigzag of the Cabrillas][78]
[A Road in Cabañal][79]
[A Road in Cabañal][80]
[The Shores of the Mediterranean][81]
[The Shores of the Mediterranean][82]
MURVIEDRO
[General View][83]
[General View][84]
[View from the Station][85]
[View from the Castle][86]
[The Castle and Town][87]
[The Castle][88]
[The Castle from one of the Courts][89]
[Entrance to the Castle][90]
[General View of the Roman Amphitheatre][91]
[General View of the Roman Amphitheatre][92]
[The Roman Amphitheatre][93]
[Interior of the Roman Amphitheatre][94]
[Principal Gate of the Roman Amphitheatre][95]
[Entrance to the Roman Amphitheatre][96]
[Entrance to the Roman Amphitheatre][97]
JATIVA
[General View][98]
[View from the Station][99]
[The Civil Hospital][100]
ALICANTE
[General View][101]
[The Castle][102]
[View from the Castle][103]
[The Breakwater][104]
[General View][105]
[General View][106]
[General View][107]
[Paseo de los Martires][108]
[Paseo de los Martires][109]
[Paseo de los Martires][110]
[Paseo de los Martires][111]
[Paseo de Nuñez][112]
[The Town Hall][113]
[The Town Hall][114]
[Monument to Quijano][115]
[The Bull-Ring][116]
ELCHE
[General View][117]
[General View][118]
[General View][119]
[View of the Town][120]
[Plaza Mayor][121]
[View from the Station][122]
[The Road to Alicante][123]
[The Road from Alicante][124]
[The Town Hall][125]
[Church of San Juan][126]
[Bridge over the Rambla de Elche][127]
[View from the Railway Bridge][128]
[The Canal][129]
[Washing Linen in the Canal][130]
[A Canal][131]
[Tower of Rapsamblanc, belonging to the Conde de Luna][132]
[Castle of the Duque de Altamira, now a Prison][133]
[Mill and Castle of the Duque de Altamira][134]
[Castle of the Duque de Altamira][135]
[Castle and Mill][136]
[Palms][137]
[Country Spinners][138]
[Casa de la Huerta][139]
[A Country Road][140]
[A Country House][141]
[A Country House][142]
[A Famous Palm][143]
[A Palm celebrated for its Resemblance to a Column][144]
[Palm Groves][145]
[A Road][146]
SAX
[General View][147]
MURCIA
[General View][148]
[View from the Tower of the Cathedral, towards the South][149]
[View of the Town][150]
[General View of the Town][151]
[General View of the Town][152]
[General View of the Town][153]
[General View][154]
[The Bridge][155]
[The River][156]
[The Bridge over the Segura][157]
[The River Segura][158]
[The Fair][159]
[The Fair][160]
[The Market-Place][161]
[Plaza de Santo Domingo on Market-Day][162]
[Paseo del Malecon][163]
[Plaza de Santa Catalina][164]
[Plaza de Toros, now Plaza de San Agustin][165]
[Paseo del Arenal][166]
[Plaza de San Pedro][167]
[Paseo de Floridablanca and Palace of the Exhibition][168]
[Plaza de Santa Isabella][169]
[Calle del Puente][170]
[Plaza de la Gloriéta][171]
[Plaza de la Gloriéta][172]
[The Cathedral][173]
[General View of the Cathedral][174]
[Principal Façade of the Cathedral][175]
[Tower of the Cathedral][176]
[Side Door of the Cathedral][177]
[The Cathedral: Gate of the Apostles][178]
[The Cathedral: Chapel of the Marqués de los Velez][179]
[The Cathedral: Detail of the Façade][180]
[Detail of the Cathedral][181]
[The Cathedral: Window of the Belfry][182]
[The Cathedral: Principal Nave][183]
[The Cathedral: Lateral Nave][184]
[The Cathedral: Behind the Choir][185]
[The Cathedral: Entrance to the Chapel of the Marqués de los Velez][186]
[The Cathedral: Chapel of the Marqués de los Velez][187]
[The Cathedral: The High Altar][188]
[The Cathedral: The High Altar][189]
[The Cathedral: General View of the Choir][190]
[The Cathedral: The Bishop’s Throne, in the Choir][191]
[The Cathedral: Detail of the Choir Stalls][192]
[The Cathedral: Detail of the Choir Stalls][193]
[The Cathedral: The Sacristy][194]
[The Cathedral: Tomb of Alfonso the Wise][195]
[Church of Santo Domingo][196]
[Church of Santo Domingo][197]
[Church of San Bartolomé][198]
[Façade of the Convent de la Misericordia][199]
[Palace of the Marqués de Villafranca de los Velez, and Convent of Santa Clara][200]
[The Episcopal Palace][201]
[Casa Huerta de las Bombas][202]
[Palace of the Marqués de Almodovar][203]
[Palace of the Baron de Albalá][204]
[Palace of the Marqués de Espinardo][205]
[The “Contraste”][206]
[Monument to Salzillo][207]
[Roman Altar dedicated to Peace, found in Carthagena and moved in 1594 to the Palace of the Marqués de Espinardo][208]
[House in the Calle Jaboneria][209]
[House of the Painter Villasis][210]
[A Balcony in the Calle Traperia][211]
[Puerta Cadenas][212]
[Teatro de Romea][213]
[The Bull-Ring][214]
[The Town Hall][215]
[The Town Hall][216]
[Procession leaving the Church of Jesus in Holy Week—St. Veronica][217]
[Procession leaving the Church of Jesus in Holy Week—Th Kiss of Judas][218]
[Procession in Holy Week. The Garden of Gethsemane][219]
[Procession in Holy Week. Our Lord Falling][220]
[Procession in Holy Week. The Scourging][221]
[Church of Jesus. The Last Supper, by Zarzillo][222]
[Pilgrimage of St. Blas][223]
[Ruins of the Arab Baths][224]
[Environs of Murcia: Convent of San Jeronimo][225]
[Environs of Murcia: Hermitage of the Fuensanta][226]
[Environs of Murcia: Hermitage of the Fuensanta][227]
[Environs of Murcia: Hermitage of the Fuensanta][228]
[Environs of Murcia: Castle of Monteagudo][229]
[Paisaje de la Huerta][230]
[Paisaje de la Huerta][231]
[Paisaje de la Huerta][232]
[A Cart Loaded with “Tinajas”][233]
[Harvest-Time][234]
[Environs of Murcia: The Huerta des Capucins][235]
[Environs of Murcia: The Huerta des Capucins][236]
[Environs of Murcia: View from the Huerta des Capucins][237]
[Environs of Murcia: The Huerta des Capucins—Date-Gathering][238]
ORIHUELA
[General View][239]
[General View from the Puerta de Murcia][240]
[The River Segura][241]
[The River Segura from the East][242]
[Door of the Church of Santiago][243]
CARTHAGENA
[General View][244]
[A Partial View][245]
[View from the Station][246]
[View from the High Road][247]
[View from Quitapellijos][248]
[View from the Fort of Atalaya][249]
[View from the Fort of Atalaya][250]
[View from St. Joseph’s Mill][251]
[View from St. Joseph’s Mill][252]
[View from the Fort of Galera][253]
[View from the Fort of Galera][254]
[View of the Harbour][255]
[Santa Lucia and the Harbour][256]
[The Harbour from Santa Lucia][257]
[The Harbour from Santa Lucia][258]
[The Harbour from the Powder Magazine][259]
[The Harbour from Trincabatijos][260]
[View from the Esplanadero][261]
[The Entrance to the Harbour from Trincabatijos][262]
[The Breakwater][263]
[Entrance to the Harbour][264]
[Entrance to the Arsenal][265]
[Puerta del Mar][266]
[Puerta de Murcia][267]
[Plaza de las Monjas][268]
[The Marine College][269]
[The Bull-Ring][270]
ARCHENA
[The Baths, from La Sierra de Verdelena][271]
[General View of the Baths from the West][272]
[General View of the Baths at the Entrance to the Village][273]
[Entrance to the Baths][274]
[The Carretera and River Segura][275]
[View of the Church][276]
[Interior of the Church][277]
[The Church: Altar of the “Virgen de la Salud”][278]
[Environs of Archena: View of Villanueva][279]
[Environs of Archena: View of Blanca from the Salto del Palomo][280]
[Environs of Archena: View of Blanca from Bujamente][281]
[Environs of Archena: Village and Gardens of Ulea from Villanueva][282]
[Environs of Archena: Village and Gardens of Ulea, East Side][283]
[Environs of Archena: Village of Ojos and Mountains][284]
[Environs of Archena: The Gardens of Ojos, from the Lovers’ Leap][285]
[Environs of Archena: The Lovers’ Leap][286]
LORCA
[General View][287]
[View from the Railway Station][288]

VALENCIA & MURCIA

THE OLD KINGDOM OF VALENCIA

Shut in between the barren range of the Sierra Molina on the north, and the arid plains of Murcia to the south, the ancient Kingdom of Valencia is one of the regions of Spain least visited by the tourist. And yet, a flowering and fruitful Eden, it lies beneath a burning sun, its waters trained in obedience to the hand of man. It puts forth a vegetation of tropical luxuriance. Demeter has blessed the land. Under the soft caressing winds that sweep up from the Mediterranean the soil yields four or five crops in the year to the industry of the peasant. And if at times the dreaded sirocco, charged with poisonous vapours from the Albufera, lays the country prostrate—well, for every Paradise was devised a snake!

The people of the province, with the exception of those of Orihuela, speak that variety of the Romance which I may call Catalan, and which, with local modification, is common all along the eastern coast of Spain from the mouth of the Segura to the frontier of Rousillon. Limousin, as it is sometimes called, is not a mere dialect, but a quite distinct language, a survival of the old Langue d’oc. Probably it was spoken by those Romanised Spaniards who were driven north of the Pyrenees by the Arabic invasion. It would be restored by them when they reconquered this portion of their old territory. The Christian population, before Valencia was recovered by Jaime el Conqueridor of Aragon, spoke Castilian or a tongue akin to it. But the Catalan of the new rulers was stronger, and soon swept aside the common speech of the people. Curiously enough, this same Catalan was not the language used in Aragon itself, a fact which no doubt had a strong determining influence in the choice of Castilian at the time of the unification of the two kingdoms. Why Orihuela alone clung to its old Castilian tongue in despite of the Conqueror is not clear, unless it was owing merely to the proximity of Murcia.

In character the Valencians are superstitious, revengeful, relentless in hate. “Ni olvido ni perdono” is their motto. They love the colour and joy of life. Dancing and love-making are their chief delights. And yet they are a laborious race. But their white, rather flabby appearance proclaims them lacking in backbone and initiative. “Flesh is grass, and grass is water. The men are women, the women—nothing!” says their own proverb.

The fertile huerta has found its novelist in Blasco Ibañez, a native of Valencia, who has beautifully described the languid life of the province. A translation must necessarily lack the force and elegance of the master’s style, but the following passages will at least enable the reader to picture a summer in the south: