Manual of the apiary

by Albert John Cook

The foundation if used the full depth of the frame, stretches so that many cells are so enlarged as to be used for drone-brood. This demands, if we use the sheets unstrengthened, that they only be used as guides, not reaching more than one-third of the depth of the frame. Strips not less than four inches wide will not sag to do any harm. The foundation, too, should not quite reach the sides of the frame, as by expansion it is liable to warp and bend. Captain J. E. Hetherington has invented a cure for this stretching and warping, by strengthening the foundation. To do this, he runs several fine copper wires into the foundation as it passes through the machine.

I understand, too, that Mr. M. Metcalf, of this State, has a similar device now being patented.

This is a valuable suggestion, as it permits full-sized sheets of foundation to be inserted in the frames. I presume that very soon all worker-foundation will contain such wires.

TO FASTEN THE FOUNDATION.

In the thin sections, the foundation can best be fastened by use of the melted wax. To accomplish this, I have used a block made thus: Saw a fifteen-sixteenths inch board so that it will just exactly fill a section. Screw this to a second board, which is one-half inch broader each way, so that the larger under board will project one-quarter of an inch each side the top board. Now set the section over the top board, place the foundation, cut a trifle shorter than the inside of the section, within, close to the top and one side of the section, and cause it to adhere by running on a little of the melted wax, which, by use of a kerosene lamp or stove, may be kept melted. If the basin is double-walled, with water in the outer chamber and wax in the inner, it is much safer, as then the wax will never burn.

If the tops of the sections are thick, they may be grooved, and by crowding the foundation into the groove, and, if necessary, pressing it with a thin wedge, it will be securely held.

Fig. 68.

This last method will work nicely in case of fastening into the brood-frames. But I have found that I could fasten them rapidly and very securely by simply pressing them against the rectangular projection from the top-bar already described ([page 134]). In this case a block ([Fig, 68, a]) should reach up into the frame from the side which is nearest to the rectangular projection—it will be remembered that the projection ([Fig, 36]) is a little to one side of the centre of the top-bar, so that the foundation shall hang exactly in the centre—so far that its upper surface would be exactly level with the upper surface of the rectangular projection. This block, like the one described above, has shoulders ([Fig, 68, f]), so that it will always reach just the proper distance into the frame. It is also rabbeted at the edge where the projection of the top-bar of the frame will rest, ([Fig, 68, b]), so that the projection has a solid support, and will not split off with pressure. We now set our frame on this block, lay on our foundation, cut the size we desire, which, unless strengthened, will be as long as the frame, and about four inches wide. The foundation will rest firmly on the projection and block, and touch the top-bar, at every point. We now take a board as thick as the projection is deep, and as wide ([Fig, 69, d]) as the frame is long, which may be trimmed off, so as to have a convenient handle ([Fig. 69, e]), and by wetting the edge of this ([Fig. 69, d]) either in water, or, better, starch-water, and pressing with it on the foundation above the projection, the foundation will be made to adhere firmly to the latter, when the frame may be raised with the block, taken off, and another fastened as before. I have practiced this plan for two years, and have had admirable success. I have very rarely known the foundation to drop, though it must be remembered that our hives are shaded, and our frames small.

Fig. 69.