The first reliable record of the wonders of this lost world was dated 1847. That year, it will be remembered, was one of great moment in the history of the western movement—the year that Brigham Young braved the high prairies and pathless mountains with his great exodus, settling an empire on the shores of Great Salt Lake. Although the Pacific trails were fairly well established by then, his was the first of the true migrations, and the gold rush to California, the Oregon excursions, and the Pikes Peak mosaid were yet to come.
In this fateful year of 1847 a certain Professor Hiram A. Prout of St. Louis came somehow into contact with a representative of the American Fur Company, which ran substantial trapping operations all up the wide Missouri and its tributaries. How this meeting came about is lost to record, but we do know that the fur trader gave Professor Prout a souvenir of his recent travels through the Badlands of Dakota—a fragment of the lower jaw of a Titanothere, the first fossil ever to be quarried out of the region and used for scientific purposes.
In that same year a second Badlands fossil turned up, this one a well-preserved head of an ancestral camel, given to or purchased by the great scholar, Dr. Joseph Leidy. With true academic ardor both of these gentlemen, Leidy and Prout, rushed their discoveries into scholarly print, describing in learned journals the nature of their trophies. Enjoying the slender circulation of academic publication, the essays which described these fossil wonders eventually found their way into the offices of the government’s geological survey, which acted quickly to dispatch an expedition to the overlooked region of their origin.
That first exploring party, the David Owen Survey, went into the field in 1849. A prominent scientist-artist, Dr. John Evans, was attached to the group, and from his pen we have several sketches of this pioneer adventure into the empty wastelands. If these drawings look more like studies of Dante’s Inferno than like the breath-taking Badlands as they really are, it must be remembered that such geological formations had never before been visited by the members of that party, and, being completely alien to the America of their knowledge, impressed them every bit as a visit to the moon might have done.
The Owens party was merely the vanguard of the great army of brave men and women who have ever since made their dangerous ways into the remotest distances of the mountain and desert West, seeking neither riches of gold nor riches of land, but only more minute bits of the knowledge of the world of our past. Archeologists, geologists, and paleontologists from universities and learned societies the world over have spent liberally of their time, energies, and personal safety to scout out the secrets of mankind’s past in such remote corners of the earth as the Badlands. Year after year additional expeditions, both governmental and privately organized, made their way into this particular area, seeking out the fossil remains which turned up in great numbers.
V. F. Hayden of the United States Geological Survey was one of the most diligent of the early explorers. He made trips into the Badlands in 1853, 1855, 1857, and 1866, carrying on detailed and exhaustive studies and eventually unraveling the story of the region’s major geologic features.
As Hayden’s reports became more and more widely circulated, various universities found projects of specific interest in one or another phase of the work of uncovering fossil beds; and from year to year Yale, Princeton, Amherst, the universities of South Dakota and Nebraska, and other institutions sent groups into the Badlands for summer work. Gradually, as these several groups exchanged information and reports of progress, it became possible for their scientists to trace back, through the skeletal remains of prehistoric animals, the very processes of the evolution of many entire families in the animal kingdom. Not only are the fossil beds of the Badlands as richly stocked with remains as any such bed in the world, but in a great many instances entire groups of three, four, and five whole skeletons have been found, making it possible for museum workers to re-create almost perfectly the animals as they existed and to set up models of the terrain at various intervals throughout its entire sixty-million-year history.
Perhaps the most noteworthy as well as view-worthy section of the Badlands is Sheep Mountain, located at the far west end of the Monument. Down from the summit runs a great canyon, the School of Mines Canyon, named for the fact that the South Dakota State School of Mines at Rapid City long ago chose that location for the bulk of its paleontological research. Under the guidance of famed Dr. Cleophas O’Harra, for many years president of that institution, groups of Mines students went on extended annual encampments on Sheep Mountain, unearthing, among other rarities, full skeletons of the prehistoric midget horse, the saber-toothed tiger, and camels. It was this last discovery that lent considerable support to the concept, conjectural at the time of Dr. O’Harra’s discoveries, that a land bridge had once connected North America and Asia, allowing the migration of peoples and animals from the old world into the new. School of Mines Canyon, while some distance off the main highway leading from Pierre to the Black Hills, is by all means worth the time required to visit it. The canyon lies only thirteen miles from the town of Scenic.
The Badlands are reached by Highway 14-16 and by State Route 40. Coming from the west, from Rapid City, the visitor can take route 40 directly to the town of Scenic, forty-seven miles distant. From Scenic, in addition to connecting with the side trip to Sheep Mountain, 40 continues along the north wall of the Badlands all the way to Cedar Pass and out the east end of the region, merging at Kadoka with Highway 16, or, by means of a nine-mile connection, with 14.
Should the weather be bad and State 40 not recommended by local informers, the route is out of Rapid City on 14-16, east fifty-five miles to the town of Wall, thence by the access road through the Pinnacles, down into the Badlands halfway between Scenic and Cedar Pass, and joining State 40.