I.Introductory
Innsbruck: the Declaration of War[1]
École Militaire, Montreuil[2]
Hôtel de Ville, Doullens[3]
In the Compiègne Forest[4]
II.The Ypres Salient
The Menin Gate, Ypres[5]
Dugouts in the Ypres Walls[6]
Ypres from the Lille Gate[7]
The Belfry Tower, Ypres[8]
The "Tank Cemetery," Hooge[9]
At Gheluvelt[10]
"Stirling Castle"[11]
"Clapham Junction"[12]
The Becelaere Road[13]
"Hill 60"[14], [15]
At St. Julien[16]
The Passchendaele Ridge[17]
A "Pillbox"[18]
III.Zeebrugge
The Bruges Canal[19]
Lock Gate at Zeebrugge[20]
The Guns on the Mole[21]
The Mole at Zeebrugge[22]
"C 3"[23]
IV.The Lys Salient
Neuve Chapelle[24]
On the Aubers Ridge (Schultze Turm)[25]
A Double O.P.[26]
Merville[27]
Estaires[28]
Bailleul[29]
Armentières[30]
Kemmel Hill[31]
Kemmel Hill[32]
"Plug Street" Wood[33]
A Cemetery in "Plug Street" Wood[34]
V.Bethune, La Bassée, and Loos
Bethune[35]
Givenchy[36]
La Bassée[37]
The Canal at La Bassée[38]
A Pithead[39]
The Double Crassier[40]
A Communication Trench near Loos[41]
"No Man's Land"[42]
VI.Arras, Vimy, and Lens
Arras[43]
Arras Cathedral[44]
On the Vimy Ridge[45]
A Mine Crater on the Ridge[46]
German Gun Emplacement at Thelus[47]
The Road to Lens[48]
Lens under Snow[49]
Lens[50]
VII.The Somme
The Somme Road[51]
Foucaucourt[52]
Mametz[53]
Trones Wood[54]
Delville Wood[55]
Combles[56]
The Bapaume Road (Butte de Warlencourt)[57]
Mont St. Quentin[58]
Péronne[59]
Warfusée (Lamotte)[60]
Villers Bretonneux[61]
The Chipilly Spur[62]
Cappy[63]
Villers Carbonnel[64]
The Somme at Cléry[65]
Brie Château[66]
VIII.Albert and the Ancre
On the Amiens-Albert Road[67]
Albert on Evacuation[68]
Albert in Winter[69]
Albert Cathedral[70]
In the Ancre Valley[71]
Aveluy[72]
Beaumont-Hamel[73]
IX.The Oise and the Avre
The "Big Bertha" Emplacement[74]
The St. Gobain Forest[75]
Noyon[76]
Montdidier[77]
The Avre Valley[78]
X.Cambrai to St. Quentin
Cambrai (Place d'Armes)[79]
Cambrai Cathedral[80]
Bourlon Wood[81]
Bellicourt[82]
The St. Quentin Canal[83]
The Riqueval Bridge[84]
Bellenglise[85]
St. Quentin Cathedral[86]
Ribécourt[87]
XI.Rheims, the Aisne, Soissons
Rheims[88]
Rheims Cathedral (West End)[89]
Rheims Cathedral (East End)[90]
The Chemin des Dames[91]
Cerny[92]
Caves above Soissons[93]
The Oise and Aisne Canal[94]
Fismes[95]
Soissons—St. Jean des Vignes[96]
Soissons Cathedral[97]
XII.Verdun, the Meuse, the Argonne
St. Mihiel[98]
Verdun[99]
Vaux Fort—North Fosse[100]
Vaux Village[101]
Douaumont Fort[102]
The Mort Homme[103]
The Mort Homme—French Front Lines[104]
The Argonne Forest[105]
Varennes[106]
XIII.The Marne to Mons
The Mons-Condé Canal[107]
Slag Heaps at Mons[108]
The Mormal Forest[109]
Landrecies[110]
Le Cateau[111]
The Marne (near La Ferté)[112]
Dormans[113]
Epernay[114]
The Vesle at Sillery[115]
Buzancy Château[116]
Monument at Buzancy[117]
Le Quesnoy[118]
In the German Retreat, 1917[119]
Hirson[120]
A Pile Bridge[121]
Sedan[122]
Maubeuge[123]
Mons[124]

YPRES TO VERDUN


I.—INTRODUCTORY

(PLATES 1 TO 4.)

On the 26th of July, 1914, on my return from a pleasant motor excursion through the Dolomites, I arrived at Innsbruck, and found the picturesquely situated old city in a state of unsuppressed excitement owing to the proclamation of war made on that day between Austria and Serbia. The crowds in the Maria Theresien Strasse were reading and discussing the proclamation ([Plate 1]), and were obviously in excellent spirits, with no premonition of what would be the unhappy fate of their country when at length the fire which they had kindled should be finally extinguished. Among the mountains we had seen no newspapers for weeks, so that the news of the outbreak of war came as a complete surprise, but still as something not at all affecting ourselves. It was not until some days later (on the 30th of July) that we found ourselves in the thick of German mobilisation at the Kehl bridge, and were told that we must find our way home either by Belgium or by Switzerland, for all roads into France were closed. After some exciting days, and many interviews with high German authorities, civil, military and police, we happily succeeded in getting safely into Switzerland, and so eventually back to England by way of Genoa, Gibraltar, and the Bay of Biscay.