Passing on towards Thurles, we saw one of the finest monastic ruins in Ireland, Holy Cross Abbey. The ruins are of great antiquity, but are well preserved, and they are quite extensive. The Cruciform church is still extant enough to show lines of great beauty. This was a former Sanctuary of the O’Briens of Limerick.
From Thurles we went directly west to Limerick.
Limerick is one of Ireland’s oldest cities, and it looks it. It is built on the Shannon river, and Limerick Castle still frowns over that noble stream. This old castle is well preserved.
Limerick, like so many of the towns around the coast of Ireland, was founded by the Danes. It has been the scene of some stirring Irish history. Two famous sieges were endured by this city in the 17th century.
In 1651, the English besieged and captured Limerick under General Ireton. On capturing the city, Ireton hung Bishop O’Brien, an outrage deeply resented by the Irish people.
In 1690 the forces of William II. invested Limerick, after the victory at the Boyne, and the garrison was compelled to capitulate. The treaty of capitulation was signed on a large stone, since called the “Treaty Stone.”
This Treaty afterwards was shamefully violated by the English Government, and to this day Limerick is known in Ireland as “The City of the Violated Treaty.” As we flew over the city I saw this famous stone, on a pedestal, near Thomond Bridge. I also saw the ancient Cathedral which adorns the city. The present population of Limerick is only 40,000 as the city has lost heavily in recent years by emigration to America. The chief business at present is butter-making, but lace and linen are also produced. There are fine docks and a good export business, as the Shannon is easily navigable at Limerick.
There was one other spot in Ireland we wished to see. We could not finish up our aeroplane trip without flying over Glengariff, which has been called the loveliest spot in all Europe. We made a rapid return flight from Limerick to County Cork. We sped past the Kerry Mountains, beyond which lay Killarney, but we did not attempt to cross them. It was still early in the forenoon when we reached Bantry Bay.
Glengariff means “Rugged Glen” and the scenery is rugged enough in places but it is undoubtedly one of the finest scenes in the world. A mountain stream runs through the lovely valley, which is crossed by many picturesque bridges, before it empties itself into the waters of Bantry Bay. Thackery said if Glengariff were in England, it would be one of the world’s wonders. The climate is remarkably mild all the year and the wild flowers grow in profusion. We passed directly over the little village of Glengariff, and saw Cromwell’s Bridge. This is a bridge said to have been damaged, as so much else was during Cromwell’s visit in the neighborhood.
Our minds, our hearts, our souls were full of the beautiful scenes of the Emerald Isle, when we turned towards Cork for our final flight.