No game is more highly prized or more eagerly sought after in Europe than our American canvas-back ducks, grouse and wild turkeys. It has become part of our history that during the late war twenty thousand turkeys were shipped by one firm in New York City to supply a Thanksgiving dinner to an army; while at present so plentiful is the supply that but a few days would be required to secure double that number.
Near Rhode Island, on one farm of about fifty acres, twenty thousand geese, and as many ducks, are fattened annually for market. In Vermont and other cold localities during December, when turkeys are full grown and fattest, hundreds of tons of them are dressed, frozen hard in boxes, and preserved in that condition for use in the spring and summer months; when freshly killed, turkeys are tough and unpalatable. Unless well experienced, the purchaser would do better to leave the selection of poultry and game to some reliable dealer, rather than depend upon “signs,” which are at times deceiving.
Spring chickens appear in market about May; those hatched in incubators come somewhat earlier. They are very small, weighing about a pound each, and improve in flavor and richness as they increase in size. Tender chickens may be had almost the whole year, but they are not plentiful during the spring months.
Capons are good from December until April.
Young turkeys are first killed in September; they are full grown and fattest in December, and remain good until spring, when they are superseded by frozen turkeys.
Geese and ducks are first brought to market in June, and, if they have been properly fed, are a great delicacy. They may be had through the summer, autumn, and winter months. Geese are called “green” until they are three or four months old.
Guinea-fowls are best in summer and autumn, when young and fat.
Squabs are in market the whole year.
The laws for killing and selling game vary somewhat in the different States, and sometimes in the different counties of the same State. Reference is made principally in regard to the New York City markets. So great are the facilities for forwarding quickly by rail and steamer, that supplies of game are easily obtained from long distances; and birds killed in southern Texas, or other remote places, may be served perfectly fresh on New York tables a few days later. The flight of birds is greatly controlled by the weather. An early or late season, or a wet or dry one, or even a cold wave, may hasten or retard them, and make game plentiful or scarce, fat or poor; but an abundant supply of all kinds of game in its best condition is generally to be had in the months it is in season, as follows:
Ruffed grouse, commonly called partridges, are in season from September 1 to February 1.