Cosmos: A Sketch of the Physical Description of the Universe, Vol. 1

by Alexander von Humboldt

Since it is highly probable that the oscillatory movements of the soil, and the rising and sinking of the upper surface, were more strongly marked in the early periods of our planet than at present, we shall be less surprised to find in the interior of continents some few portions of the earth's surface lying below the general level of existing seas. Instances of this kind occur in the soda lakes described by General Andreossy, the small bitter lakes in the narrow Isthmus of Suez, the Caspian Sea, the Sea of Tiberias, and especially the Dead Sea.*

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Asie Centrale', t. ii., p. 319-324; t. iii., p. 549-551. The depression of the Dead Sea has been successively determined by the barometrical measurements of Count Berton, by the more careful ones of Russegger, and by the trigonometrical survey of Lieutenant Symond, of the Royal Navy, who states that the difference of level between the surface of the Dead Sea and the highest houses of Jaffa is about 1605 feet. Mr. Alderson, who communicated this result to the Geographical Society of London in a letter, of the contents of which I was informed by my friend, Captain Washington, was of opinion (Nov. 28, 1841) that the Dead Sea lay about 1400 feet under the level of the Mediterranean. A more recent communication of Lieutenant Symond (Jameson's 'Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal', vol. xxxiv., 1843, p. 178) gives 1312 feet as the final result of two very accordant trigonometrical operations.

The level of the water in the two last-named seas is p 297 666 and 1312 feet below the level of the Mediterranean. If we could suddenly remove the alluvial soil which covers the rocky strata in many parts of the earth's surface, we should discover how great a portion of the rocky crust of the earth was then below the present level of the sea. The periodic, although irregularly alternating rise and fall of the water of the Caspian Sea, of which I have myself observed evident traces in the northern portions of its basin, appears to prove,* as do also the observations of Darwin on the coral seas,** that without earthquakes, properly so- called, the surface of the earth is capable of the same gentle and progressive oscillations as those which must have prevailed so generally in the earliest ages, when the surface of the hardening crust of the earth was less compact than at present.

[footnote] *'Sur la Mobilite du fond de la Mer Caspienne', in my 'Asie Centr.', t. ii., p. 283-294. The Imperial Academy of Sciences of St. Petersburgh in 1830, at my request, charged the learned physicist Lenz to place marks indicating the mean level of the sea, for definite epochs, in different places near Baku, in the peninsula of Abscheron. In the same manner, in an appendix to the instructions given to Captain (now Sir James C.) Ross for his Antarctic expedition, I urged the necessity of causing marks to be cut in the rocks of the southern hemisphere, as had already been done in Sweden and on the shores of the Caspian Sea. Had this measure been adopted in the early voyages of Bougainville and Cook, we should now know whether the secular relative changes in the level of the seas and land are to be considered as a general, or merely a local natural phenomenon, and whether a law of direction can be recognized in the points which have simultaneous elevation or depression.

[footnote] **On the elevation and depression of the bottom of the South Sea, and the diffrent areas of alternate movements, see Darwin's 'Journal', p. 557, 561-566.

The phenomena to which we would here direct attention remind us of the instability of the present order of things, and of the changes to which the outlines and configuration of continents are probably still subject at long intervals of time. That which may scarcely be perceptible in one generation, accumulates during periods of time, whose duration is revealed to us by the movement of remote heavenly bodies. The eastern coast of the Scandinavian peninsula has probably risen p 298 about 320 feet in the space of 8000 years; and in 12,000 years, if the movement be regular, parts of the bottom of the sea which lie nearest the shores, and are in the present day covered by nearly fifty fathoms of water, will come to the surface and constitute dry land. But what are such intervals of time compared to the length of the geognostic periods revealed to us in the stratified series of formations, and in the world of extinct and varying organisms! We have hitherto only considered the phenomena of elevation; but the analogies of observed facts lead us with equal justice to assume the possibility of the depression of whole tracts of land. The mean elevation of the non-mountainous parts of France amounts to less than 480 feet. It would not, therefore, require any long period of time, compared with the old geognostic periods, in which such great changes were brought about in the interior of the earth, to effect the permanent submersion of the northwestern part of Europe, and induce essential alterations in its littoral relations.

The depression and elevation of the solid or fluid parts of the earth — phenomena which are so opposite in their action that the effect of elevation in one part is to produce an apparent depression in another — are the causes of all the changes which occur in the configuration of continents. In a work of this general character, and in an impartial exposition of the phenomena of nature, we must not overlook the 'possibility' of a diminution of the quantity of water, and a constant depression of the level of seas. Thgere can scarcely be a doubt that, at the period when the temperature of the surface of the earth was higher, when the waters were inclosed in larger and deeper fissures, and when the atmosphere possessed a totally different character from what it does at present, great changes must have occurred in the level of seas, depending upon the increase and decrease of the liquid parts of the earth's surface. But in the actual condition of our planet, there is no direct evidence of a real continuous increase or decrease of the sea, and we have no proof of any gradual change in its level at certain definite points of observation, as indicated by the mean range of the barometer. According to experiments made by Daussy and Antonio Nobile, an increase in the height of the barometer would in itself be attended by a depression in the level of the sea. But as the mean pressure of the atmosphere at the level of the sea is not the same at all latitudes, owing to meteorological causes depending upon the direction of the wind and varying degrees of moisture, the p 299 barometer alone can not afford a certain evidence of the general change of level in the ocean. The remarkable fact that some of the ports in the Mediterranean were repeatedly left dry during several hours at the beginning of this century, appears to show that currents may by changes occurring in their direction and force, occasion a 'local'' retreat of the sea, and a permanent drying of a small portion of the shore, without being followed by any actual diminution of water, or any permanent depression of the ocean. We must, however, be very cautious in applying the knowledge which we have lately arrived at, regarding these involved phenomena, since we might otherwise be led to ascribe to water as the elder element, what ought to be referred to the two other elements, earth and air.

As the 'external' configuration of continents, which we have already described in their horizontal expansion, exercises, by their variously indented littoral outlines, a favorable influence on climate, trade, and the progress of civilization, so likewise does their internal articulation, or the vertical elevation of the soil (chains of mountains and elevated plateaux), give rise to equally important results. Whatever produces a polymorphic diversity of forms on the surface of our planetary habitation — such as mountains, lakes, grassy savannas, or even deserts encircled by a band of forests — impresses some peculiar character on the social condition of the inhabitants. Ridges of high land covered by snow impede intercourse; but a blending of low, discontinued mountain chains* and tracts of valleys, as we see so happily presented in the west and south of Europe, tends to the multiplication of meteorological processes and the products of vegetation, and, from the variety manifested in different kinds of cultivation in each district, even under the same degree of latitude, gives rise to wants that stimulate the activity of the inhabitants.

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Rel. Hist.', t. iii., p. 232-234. See also, the able remarks on the configuration of the earth, and the position of its lines of elevation in Albrechts von Roon, 'Grundzugen der Erd Volker und Staatenkunde', Abth. i., 1837, s. 158, 270, 276.

Thus the awful revolutions, during which, by the action of the interior on the crust of the earth, great mountain chains have been elevated by the sudden upheaval of a portion of the oxydized exterior of our planet, have served, after the establishment of repose, and on the revival of organic life, to furnish a richer and more beautiful variety of individual forms, and in a great measure to remove from the earth that aspect of dreary p 300 uniformity which exercises so impoverishing an influence on the physical and intellectual powers of mankind.