Lord Panmure, the Minister-at-War, anxious for the comfort of the troops in the Crimea, is desirous that, if possible, every man in the trenches should be supplied with a basin of hot soup during the winter nights; the allowance of rum to be, in consequence, either diminished or entirely withheld. His lordship believing Monsieur Soyer to be still in the Crimea, requests the Board to inquire of him if such would be practicable.
I at once replied that it could be done, and without difficulty, for any number of men, by the application of my field-stoves. This answer met with the general approbation of the assembled Board. I next remarked that the stoves might be placed in the trenches, even in front of the enemy, as not a spark of fire could be seen either by day or night while they were in use. This point having been satisfactorily settled, the question of taking away or reducing the quantity of rum was seriously debated. General Eyre was of opinion that the men would not like to part with any portion of their rum. Generals Bentinck, Rokeby, &c., were in favour of giving the soup as an addition, and allowing the rum to be issued as usual. It struck me that by giving only half a gill of rum the other half would almost entirely cover the expense of the soup, if economically managed. I also proposed another plan, which was to give less rum and less than a pint of soup, which was discussed.
When the inquiry was over, I said—“Gentlemen, I shall feel obliged if you will favour me with a visit to my field kitchen. I have made several experiments in diets for you to taste, and if you approve of them, have no doubt, when you know the cost, you will be able to settle the question of supplying soup in the trenches with more certainty.”
All present agreed, excepting General Eyre, who was of opinion that what he as a soldier had for so many years found answer for the men, would answer now; nor did he see why the soldiers should live better than himself. “I should be very happy,” said he, “to improve the daily food of the troops, but do not like anything to be overdone. I like judicious discipline in all things.”
Though I must frankly admit I was anything but enchanted with the general’s way of thinking at first, I could not but admire the latter part of his argument, which was as sincere as it was severe.
Several debates took place upon the subject, and, after a little persuasion, I induced them all to come, and taste the samples I had prepared for their inspection. I proudly led my very select cavalcade towards my batteries, which upon that occasion were in charge of the troops. I had only given the written receipts for them to act upon, and charged a sergeant to watch over them, and see that the proportions in the receipts were properly attended to. An infallible plan of ensuring success at all times is to appoint a man of superior grade as overlooker. One to each regiment would be sufficient.
Upon our arrival we found everything in perfect order: the stoves were clean, the contents properly cooked, and the consumption of fuel four hundred per cent. less than in the usual way. Only five different messes were prepared upon this occasion—viz., ox-head soup, stewed fresh beef, Scotch hodge-podge of mutton, salt pork and beef with dumplings. Everything was done to perfection. After carefully explaining the process to Generals Eyre and Bentinck, who were not present on the great opening day, we sat down to test the quality of the articles. A sumptuous lunch was displayed from the soldiers’ rations—always excepting the ox heads, which I had obtained from the butcher, as usual, on the eve of their funeral. With these I made an excellent pot au feu, enough for fifty men. Lord Rokeby was so highly delighted with it, that he recommended it to all, and requested me to give this receipt, as well as that for stewed beef, to his cook—for which see [Addenda].
A goblet of Marsala wine, with a lump of ice, terminated this martial collation under a burning sun, and amid the everlasting roar of the bombardment of the besieged city. The guests retired, quite satisfied. Even General Eyre, though still adhering to his opinion that it was too good for soldiers, and would make them lazy, said, “Soldiers do not require such good messes as those while campaigning.” At which remark the gentlemen present could not refrain from laughing.
“Well, general,” said I, “your plan has been tried, and, as you perceive, has not answered. I was therefore obliged to introduce a simpler style, by which soldiers might cook with pleasure and less difficulty, and, having once learnt, always will cook properly, and with less trouble. You must also observe, general, that it is with the same rations as before. And is it not better to make a few good cooks out of an army than to have an army of bad cooks?”
By this time the general was on his charger. He said, “We are both right. For my part, I mean what I say: you will improve the cook, but spoil the soldier.”