In making the receipts Nos. 1 and 2 public, I did not suppose that they would meet with the entire approbation of the nation, particularly by those who imagine that nothing can be good except plenty of animal food is used for the subsistence of man. I shall not enter into a culinary digression to prove it, but I am so satisfied of the failure of the quantity of nourishment generally obtained by those who cannot make anything good, even with plenty, for want of having the practical judgment, that I make bold to affirm, that the little animal substance I recommend, if closely followed, will produce all the nourishment requisite when amalgamated in the way described.
As regards the peelings and ends of vegetables which I use in my receipts, it is a well-known fact, that the exterior of every vegetable, roots in particular, contains more flavour than the interior of it; which is my reason for recommending only the washing well of those vegetables before they are cut for use, thereby increasing the vegetable produce of the country, and using that which has hitherto only increased the “malaria” of our courts and alleys by its decomposition.
Having thus explained my reasons, I now give publicity to my receipts for making soups and other dishes in this form; which I trust will prove useful to the benevolent and the whole laborious and industrious population of the county, and produce economy in all charitable institutions, and comfort in every cottage.
Almost all the productions of nature can be made available, and produce wholesome and nutritious food for man. The following is a short list, taking them in rotation, according to the quantity of nutriment they contain:—Beef, mutton, venison, pork, veal, lamb, hare, rabbits, bacon, lard, dripping, butter, oil: of farinaceous substances,[38] Indian corn, wheat, rice, barley, rye, buck-wheat, oats, peas, beans, lentils: of vegetables and roots—yams, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, parsnips, turnips, carrots, mangel wurzel, onions, leeks, green peas, cauliflowers, celery, kelp, Irish moss, dillisk, French beans, greens, spinach, sorrel, salads of all kinds: of condiments—as salt, pepper, cayenne, curry, chilies, mustard, allspice, mace, cloves, ginger, cinnamon, &c.: of herbs—savory, parsley, mint, thyme, marjoram, basil, bay-leaf, and all sorts, both culinary and medicinal, or their essences, all of which, when properly blended with food, add to its nourishing qualities; but the grand secret is, to obtain from the above all the nutriment they possess, which is done by following my receipts, and reducing the animal and vegetable substances to a glaze, and mixing it with the farinaceous, and thereby obtaining a palatable and agreeable food, and economizing the productions of nature to an immense extent; for, by the system at present adopted, more than fifty per cent. of the animal and vegetable productions are lost, and the nutriment from the farinaceous ingredients is rendered less, in consequence of being unpalatable. In my visits to the different charitable institutions of this city, I have been surprised at the want of knowledge manifested in making of soups. In some parishes, I found 100 pounds of meat, cut into pieces of a quarter of a pound each, put into 100 gallons of water, at twelve o’clock of one day, to be boiled until twelve o’clock the next day; by such proceedings the osmazome of the meat is lost by evaporation from the boiler, and only the gelatine and fibrine is left; the former has been proved by a medical board, instituted at Paris, for the purpose of inquiring into the subject, to contain no nutriment whatever, and the latter contains about the same as a piece of dry wood. What would be said of a cook who would put a quarter of a pound of meat, or even a piece weighing thirty pounds, to roast before a large fire for twenty-four hours? What nutriment would it contain at the end of that period? My principle is easily illustrated by putting twelve onions into a gallon of water, and boiling them for as many hours; no smell arises from it; but cut the half of one, and fry it, and the perfume will be diffused over the whole house: thus I extract the aroma of every ingredient which I employ, and any one carefully following the receipts will produce a palatable and nourishing food.
The old plan of soaking farinaceous ingredients is not bad, but in many instances it cannot be practised, in which case I would recommend that peas be put into soft boiling water,[39] and that the ebullition does not cease until the peas are reduced to a pulp. Indian meal must also be put into boiling water, and be well boiled for two hours. Rice and barley may be put into cold water, and be boiled until they can be easily mashed between the fingers; the length of time depends upon their quality.—All kinds of food made of farinaceous ingredients, as Indian meal, peas, rice, &c., increase in quantity when made the day previous, and require more water when warmed up.
It will be perceived that I have omitted all kinds of spice except in those dishes which are intended expressly for them, as I consider they only flatter the appetite and irritate the stomach, and make it crave for more food; my object being not to create an appetite but to satisfy it; and when those dishes in which spice is introduced are given to the poor, it should only be done by the advice of the medical man; but in those cases where they have been accustomed to have them, they must be reduced by degrees until their taste is brought round to that point most conducive to health.
No. 1.—For Two Gallons.
| Two ounces of dripping | 0½ |
| Quarter of a pound of solid meat, at 4d. per lb. (cut into dice one inch square) | 1 |
| Quarter pound of onions, sliced thin | |
| Quarter pound of turnips; the peel will do, or one hole one cut into small dice | 1 |
| Two ounces of leeks; the green tops will do, sliced thin | |
| Three ounces of celery | |
| Three quarters of a pound of common flour | 1 |
| Half a pound of pure barley, or one pound of Scotch | 1½ |
| Three ounces of salt | 0¼ |
| Quarter of an ounce of brown sugar | 0¼ |
| Fuel | 0¾ |
| Two gallons of water | 0 |
| 6 |
I first put two ounces of dripping into a saucepan (capable of holding two gallons of water), with a quarter of a pound of leg of beef without bones,[40] cut into square pieces of about an inch; and two middling-sized onions, peeled and sliced; I then set the saucepan over a coal fire, and stirred the contents round for a few minutes with a wooden (or iron) spoon until fried lightly brown. I had then ready washed the peeling of two turnips, fifteen green leaves or tops of celery, and the green part of two leeks; (the whole of which, I must observe, are always thrown away.) Having cut the above vegetables into small pieces, I threw them into the saucepan with the other ingredients, stirring them occasionally over the fire for another ten minutes; then added one quart of cold water, and three quarters of a pound of common flour, and half a pound of pearl barley, mixing all well together; I then added seven quarts of hot water, seasoned with three ounces of salt, and a quarter of an ounce of brown sugar, stirred occasionally until boiling, and allowed it to simmer very gently for three hours; at the end of which time I found the barley perfectly tender. The above soup has been tasted by numerous noblemen, members of parliament, and several ladies who have lately visited my kitchen department, and who have considered it very good and nourishing.
This soup will keep several days when made as above described; but I must observe, not to keep it in a deep pan, but in rather a flat vessel, where the air could act freely upon it. Stir it now and then, until nearly cold: or otherwise the next day it will be in a state of fermentation: this does not denote the weakness of the soup, because the same evil exists with the very strongest of stock, or sauce, if not stirred, or if confined in a warm place—(a fact known to every first-rate cook).