The liver of the eel-pout (also known by the names, lota, lote, and lotus) is particularly large, and so delicate that a certain Countess of Beuchlingen squandered a large portion of her income to gratify her taste for them.[XXI_141] That lady, worthy, by her refined and antique taste, of the proudest period of Roman extravagance, was, perhaps, not aware that the most fastidious epicureans of Italy, enthusiastic admirers of the liver of this fish,[XXI_142] had it served with a sauce composed of vinegar, grated cheese, and garlic; to which they added leeks and onions, chopped fine.[XXI_143]
TROUT.
Elian speaks of a fish found in the river Astræus, in Macedonia,[XXI_144] which Gesner believed to be identical with the trout. It does not appear, however, that the Greeks knew the real value and merit of this fish; but on the other hand, the Romans assigned to it the foremost rank, next to the sturgeon, red mullets, and the sea-eel, especially when they had been fattened in the thick waters of the Tiber, on the very spot where the labridans acquired their plumpness and value.[XXI_145]
The trout was dressed like the preceding fish.
GOLD FISH.
This fish, dear to the Greeks,[XXI_146] had the honour of giving its name to the celebrated icythyophagist, Sergius, who was passionately fond of it, and who took the name Orata (from Aurata—gold fish), to preserve in his family the remembrance of his gluttony or of his affection.[XXI_147] His compatriots, the Romans, highly valued the gold fish,[XXI_148] and sought with eagerness those which had fed on the shell fish of the lake of Lucrin[XXI_149]—that precious reservoir between Baiæ and Cumæ, which never deceived the hopes of the gastronomist, nor the greedy expectations of the fishermen.[XXI_150]
The gold fish was served with a gravy composed of pepper, alisander, carrots, wild marjoram, rue, mint, myrtle leaves, and yolk of eggs; mixed with honey, vinegar, oil, wine, and garum.[XXI_151] The slow cooking of these various ingredients gave them the required homogeneousness.