The first course was removed to the sound of music.[XXXV_50] Now came chased silver cups, much larger than those of crystal[XXXV_51]—no doubt because thirst is excited by drinking. Amphoræ of a secular wine were ranged by the major-domo on the mosaic flooring of the hall, at some distance from the triclinium, and they proceeded, by the invitation of the consuls, to the choice of the symposiarch (or master of the banquet), upon whom devolved the duty of regulating how often any person was to drink, and of preventing the guests, in the best manner he could, from yielding too easily to bacchic provocations, which commonly led to unseemly gaiety and the loss of reason.[XXXV_52]
This sort magiric magistracy was obtained by lot, or the unanimous call for a personage worthy of such a distinction.[XXXV_53] That memorable evening every voice named the senator Drusillus, one of the most determined drinkers of the Roman aristocracy. Drusillus smiled, snapped his fingers,[XXXV_54] and, by the order of his master, thus intimated, a slave, who was standing behind him, filled a golden crater[C] with wine, and presented it to the symposiarch.
Thereupon, the latter, slightly raising his head from the downy cushions on which it rested, and supporting it from the left elbow,[XXXV_55] makes a graceful bow to the amphitryon, the consuls, and the rest of the assembly. Then, with a stentorian voice: “Slaves,” he cried, “bring wreaths of flowers.[XXXV_56] Fugitive images of the spring and of pleasure, they shall bind our brows.[XXXV_57] At the same time let garlands adorn our craters, in which the cherished liquor of the son of Semele sparkles;[XXXV_58] and let us bestow no thought, during the fleet joys of the banquet, on the uncertain and fatal hour when Atropos shall pronounce our doom.”
This speech, slightly impregnated with the epicurean philosophy so much in fashion during the reign of Nero, had at least the merit of a praiseworthy conciseness. Nor did it fail to attract applause from the auditors, whose brows and cups were speedily adorned with wreaths of roses, which young boys, clothed in white tunics, arranged with marvellous art.
The slight rustling of the flowers was soon drowned by the shrill noise of the trumpets which announced the second course. A flattering buzz welcomed this profusion of viands, which encumbered the tables, and well-nigh crushed them with their weight. There were the peacock,[XXXV_59] the duck, whose breast and head are so much coveted; capons’ livers,[XXXV_60] peppered becaficoes,[XXXV_61] grouse, the turtle-dove, the phenicopter,[XXXV_62] and an infinite number of rare birds, the costly tribute that Europe, Asia, and Africa, exchanged against the gold of the prodigal Seba. Other gold and silver dishes contained these inestimable fishes which Roman luxury brought so much into fashion; the scarus, or parrot fish, sturgeons, turbots, mullets, and those numerous inhabitants of every sea with which the tanks were stocked, to supply the kitchen of the freed-slave.
Moreover, there were wild boars à la Troyenne,[XXXV_63] ranged in the centre of the table, in silver basins of a prodigious value; stuffed pigs, quarters of stag and roebuck, loins of beef, kidneys surrounded with African figs,[XXXV_64] sows’ paps prepared with milk,[XXXV_65] sows’ flank,[XXXV_66] and some pieces of Gallic bacon,[XXXV_67] which certain gluttons loved to associate with a piece of succulent venison.
While the carvers were cutting up the meats with incredible address, to the sound of a light but animated music, Numidian slaves filled the cups from small leathern bottles with old Greek wine,[XXXV_68] a servant carried bread round the tables in a silver basket,[XXXV_69] and others ventilated the apartment,[XXXV_70] or offered the guests warm and iced water.[XXXV_71]