A young and unfortunate beauty had the ill-luck to displease a vindictive and irascible god, who instantly metamorphosed her into an artichoke.[IX_89] This poor girl’s name was Cinara. Although she had become a bitter plant she preserved this sweet name, which the moderns have strangely modified. Our readers, who eat artichokes with so much indifference, will, perhaps, sometimes lament this poor victim of a blind resentment.
This plant was well known to the ancients; the hilly regions of Greece, Asia, and Egypt were covered with it;[IX_90] but the inhabitants made no use of it as an aliment, and it remained uncultivated.[IX_91]
It would be rather difficult to trace the precise period when it was first introduced into Italy. All we know is, that it grew there more than half a century before the Christian era, in the time of Dioscorides, who mentioned it.[IX_92] It appears, nevertheless, that hardly any one troubled himself about artichokes, or their esculent qualities, up to that time; but the wealthy, about a century after, began to appreciate them, and Pliny, in one of his jesting whims, reproaches the rich with having deprived the lower classes and asses of a food which nature seemed to have destined for them.[IX_93]
This vegetable was then very dear,[IX_94] for it did not succeed, and was subsequently given up. It was so far forgotten that in the year 1473 it appeared as a novelty at Venice;[IX_95] and towards the year 1465 it was brought from Naples to Florence, whence it passed into France in the sixteenth century.[IX_96]
Galen[IX_97] looked upon the artichoke as a bad food.[IX_98] Columella sung its praise in his verses; he recommended it to the disciples of Bacchus, and forbid the use of it to those who were anxious to preserve a sweet and pure voice.[IX_99]
This plant, whatever may be in other respects its estimable qualities, does not please every one equally well; its bitterness and unpleasant odour keep it at a distance from numerous palates—perhaps because too many allow themselves to be prejudiced by deceitful appearances. Here are two very ingenious methods by means of which a trial might be made to overcome, or lessen, the defects it undoubtedly has, and which we can but deplore:—
Artichokes will become mild by taking care to steep the seed in a mixture of honey and milk.[IX_100] They will then exhale the most agreeable perfume, particularly when this seed has passed three days in the juice of bay leaves, lilies, or roses.[IX_101]
Having quoted the authority, we give the recipe for what it is worth.
Until the result of this experiment is known, artichokes may be eaten raw, with a seasoning of hard eggs chopped in very small pieces, garum, and oil.[IX_102]
If you prefer a sharper sauce, mix well some green mint with rue, Greek fennel,[IX_103] and coriander; add, afterwards, some pepper, alisander, honey, garum, and oil.[IX_104] They are also eaten boiled, with cummin, pepper, gravy, and oil.[IX_105]