[6] Criticisms on special buildings are better deferred till the period of his return.
[7] The Toledo at Naples is noticed as “the finest street, except the High Street of Oxford, I ever saw.”
[8] The difficulty of travelling at that time is curiously illustrated here. They had to search at Bari for a vessel, and at last to cross in a small felucca, bearing and deserving the ominous name of Le Anime di Purgatorio.
[9] For this remark I am indebted to Sir C. Eastlake.
[10] At Smyrna (for example) the houses of English merchants were scattered along the coast, and almost all the trade engrossed by them.
[11] At Bondroon (Halicarnassus) not even the governor dared to allow them to inspect the castle; and when they rowed under the walls to see the famous marbles embedded in them, and just “whitewashed in expectation of the Capudan Pasha,” they were ordered off by the soldiers on pain of death.
[12] He had received a similar offer at Corfu from Mr. Bonar, but with this important difference, that no copies were to be taken. On this ground it was thankfully but unhesitatingly refused.
[13] Several of these were afterwards engraved in Finden’s ‘Illustrations of the Bible.’
[14] The Chapel of the Nativity at Bethlehem seems (as usual) to have struck them most for simple solemnity, and Naplous (Shechem) for natural beauty, with its fertile plain and the “whole town full of roses.”
[15] In his house they found a volume of Palladio, given him by a Coptic patriarch, and highly prized.