When a hive of this kind is to be stocked, procure an early and strong swarm, which must be temporarily hived in a common straw hive, from which dislodge the bees into the glass hive, but for this purpose a little preparation will have to be made. Spread a sheet on the ground, place the mahogany floor-board on it with the support, put three bricks, or some solid blocks of about the same substance, upon which the glass will rest; then, with a sharp and sudden blow, precipitate the swarm out of the straw hive on to the floor-board and support, place the glass hive on the bricks, and the bees will collect under the bars and on to the pedestal. In about one hour's time the whole will have settled quietly and all the stragglers on the board will have collected together, the swarm hanging pear-shaped from the bar support; the bricks can now be removed, and the glass put in its right place on the floor-board. The straw cover being put on the hive, it can be removed to the place it is destined permanently to occupy.
The light should not be admitted for some days after hiving; if undisturbed, the bees will speedily build comb, working from the wooden bars, which are placed there for their assistance and support. In ten days or a fortnight, if the weather continue fine and warm, they will prepare to swarm again; the opening at the top must now be unstopped, and the bell-glass put on, guide-comb having been previously fixed. The directions given for the improved cottage hive equally apply to the ladies' observatory hive.
It is advisable, in winter, to furnish the glass stock-hive with more protection from cold than is afforded by the straw cover alone; some thick baize, or wrapper of wadding, for which there is space between the glass hive and the cover, will prevent so much moisture condensing on the sides of the glass. Moisture is injurious, causing the combs to grow mouldy; a little protection in the way of wrapping very much prevents this.
The hole at top is used for supplying food, should the apiarian fear the stock of honey is in danger of running short; either the bottle feeder or the round feeder maybe used for the purpose.
COTTAGER'S HIVE, FOR TAKING HONEY IN STRAW CAPS, WITHOUT THE DESTRUCTION OF THE BEES.
A very prevalent opinion exists, that bees do better in straw than in hives made of any other material. Another opinion prevails, viz., that the old-fashioned straw hive is the least expensive, the most simple, and the most productive. Although we cannot go so far as this, we are willing to admit that a simplified adaptation of the humane system to the old common straw hive is the most suitable to put into the hands of that large class of bee-keepers—cottagers. By these the more fanciful hives will be instantly condemned; besides, the expense puts them quite beyond the reach of the poorer class. The object aimed at in planning our Cottager's Hive has been to furnish a depriving hive that should be at once easy of management, inexpensive, and convenient. The stock-hive, into which the bees are first hived, is a round straw hive, having a flat top, with a hole in the centre. The size of this lower hive is seven or eight inches deep, fourteen inches across the bottom, finished with a wooden hoop, which adds very much to the firmness and durability of the hive. The floor-board is one and a quarter inch thick, with a way sunk therein for the entrance. A small round mat of straw closes the hole in the top; this mat may be fixed by wooden pegs. We have now described what is termed the stock-hive, which is, in fact, an old-fashioned straw hive, adapted, modernised, and improved to the more humane, viz., the depriving, system. The weight of the stock-hive, with its floor-board, is about 7 lbs.
The super or cap hive is about seven inches deep, eight inches in diameter, and, when filled, contains about 10 lbs. of honey and comb. A glass window, which is placed at the side, is useful for inspecting the progress made in filling it!
A common straw hive, sufficiently deep to cover, drops over the super, keeping the window dark, and fitting close on to the stock-hive. This cover-hive may be made fast by driving in two skewers, one on either side, to keep the whole firm. Unless placed in a bee-house or under a shed, the outside should be painted; or a piece of oil-cloth, or water-proof covering of any kind, shaped so as to shoot off the rain, will save the trouble of paint, and answer the purpose. If no protection of this sort is used, the rain is likely to rot the straw. As a covering, cottagers often use straight stiff thatching straw, sewed together; this contrivance is termed a "hackle," and has a pretty appearance, particularly if a number of hives are in a row. Care has to be exercised that mice do not make the covering hive a resting-place. Mortar is often used for fastening round the hive at the bottom: this is a bad plan, as it forms a harbour for insects; the wooden hoop fits so close as to leave little necessity for anything of the kind.
The principle of the depriving system is so much the same with all our hives, that a good deal of repetition is necessary in describing in detail the management of each separate variety. The object aimed at with the cottager's hive, as, indeed, with all our hives, is to provide a compartment for the bees to live in with their queen, she being the mother of all. It is intended, by inducing the queen to remain in her original apartment, that all breeding should be there performed, as well as the storing of bee-bread and honey, for the winter sustenance of the bees. The cap hive, or upper chamber, known as the "super," is for the storing of honey, which the bee-keeper looks upon as a surplus, and which, at the close of the honey gathering, or as soon as filled, he intends to deprive the bees of, and appropriate to his own use, of course taking care to leave sufficient in the lower or stock hive for winter sustenance.