Supposing the hive to be a stock ([page 81]), the super should be applied at the early part of the season, say, if fine and warm, at the latter end of April or beginning of May; but if the weather is then unfavourable it is better to delay doing so until a more genial temperature. If the colony is a swarm of the present year, two or three weeks should be allowed to elapse from the time of tenanting a hive before putting on the super; this delay is necessary to give the bees the opportunity of building combs in their new domicile, and of getting a store of honey for themselves before working for their master. The exact time[28] will, however, depend much upon the weather, and the same applies to the subsequent time occupied by the bees in filling the super. They will be the more incited to commence their work, and having commenced to continue it, if some warm covering is placed over the glass; at night, when much comb-building goes on, it is important to wrap it in flannel or worsted, or some warm material (a baize bag is convenient for bell glasses). A further inducement will be offered by the fixing of a piece of comb to the bars or ventilating tube, as the case may be. The cells on the outside or by the window are always the last to be filled, so that when these are sealed over it is safe to conclude that the rest are also complete.
[28] There is the nick of time before bees make their internal arrangements for swarming, but the difficulty is to know precisely when this is.
When it is wished to use a super with a frame hive, the crown-board or roof of the stock hive must be taken away, the thin adapting or honey board, or perforated zinc adapter, taking its place—excepting of course where the crown-board is provided with openings for the purpose. The two long slits at the sides are to give admission to the super. The bees will begin sooner, and work faster, if the bars are each furnished with guide-comb (as described in the previous section). Combs that have been left unfilled may be fixed to the bars, but these must be white and clean, as dark comb should not be used for super hives.
§ XIV. REMOVING SUPERS.
The operation of taking honey is best performed on a fine sunny day. The combs may be extracted singly, if wished, for consumption, substituting an empty bar or comb; or, should the bee-keeper desire to see a handsome super, he must wait until the bees have filled and sealed up all the combs, and then he may proceed to disconnect the super. If a bell glass, he will first pass a table-knife round it underneath the rim; then with a piece of string or fine wire, one end in each hand, he will very slowly sever the remaining connection with the board, so as to allow of the bees getting out of the way. Wait an hour or so for the commotion to subside and to give the bees time to repair broken cells and suck up spilt honey. Then raise the glass and blow in a little smoke, after which the slide that closes the roof of the hive may be inserted, and above it another piece of zinc that will cover the base of the super and hold the bees in it close prisoners. After having confined them in the glass for a short time you must see whether they manifest symptoms of uneasiness, because, if they do not, it may be concluded that the queen is among them. In such a case, replace the glass, and recommence the operation on a future day. It is not often that her majesty is in the depriving-hive or glass; but, this circumstance does sometimes happen, and the removal at such a time must be avoided. When the bees that are prisoners run about in great confusion and restlessness, the operator may conclude that the queen is absent, and that all is right. The glass may be taken away a little distance off, and placed in a flower-pot or other receptacle, where it will be safe when inverted and the tin taken away; the bees will then be glad to make their escape back to their hive. A little tapping at the sides of the glass will render their tarriance uncomfortable, and the glass may then be taken into a darkened room or outhouse, with only a small aperture admitting light, which must be open; the bees, like all insects, make towards the light, and so escape (see description of "Bee-Traps," [Chap. IV. § xviii.]). The bee-master should brush them off with a feather from the comb as they can be reached; but on no account should the glass or other super be left exposed and unwatched, because the bees that have the opportunity will gorge themselves to their full, and speedily bring a host of others from the adjacent hives, who, in a very little time, would leave only the empty combs. It is truly marvellous how soon they will carry all the store back again, if allowed to do so. Unless the honey season is over, an empty glass should be put on to the hive in place of the full one, as it will attract the bees up, thereby preventing the too close crowding of the hive, and starting them to work more honeycomb.
If a bar or frame super, the first process is with a spatula to loosen the adapting-board from the stock hive after which the string is passed between them as above, putting in wedges on each side to follow the string. The smoking and expulsion of the bees follow as before. Another super will take the place of the one removed, or else the crown-board must be replaced.
Some apiarians, however, are of opinion that deprivation is more easily accomplished by disconnecting the super over night. In this case, after smoking the bees, wedge the super up all round about an inch from the board. Do this just before dusk, and leave it so for the night. The opening in the board remains unclosed, to allow of the bees joining the stock hive below, which they will naturally do for warmth. The super should receive its usual cover, and quite early in the morning, before the bees are much about, it will be ready for removal. The few bees that remain within may be speedily induced to quit. With a super that has an opening at the top it will be worth while to insert the nozzle of a pair of bellows, when a few puffs will be very efficacious in driving the occupants out.
§ XV. REMOVING FRAMES.
It is well for a beginner to practise the directions for opening and shutting up hives, by using an empty hive until he becomes familiar with the handling of the frames. The first thing to do is to loosen the crown-board, or lid, with a knife, drawing a piece of string underneath it, to divide the wax or cement with which the bees make all secure. All this should be done very slowly, so as not to irritate the bees. In hot weather the crown-board may be loosened by a lateral movement; but sometimes, for want of care, this loosening of the lid disturbs the bees, and, as soon as it is removed, a number of them, enraged thereby, rush out and attack the operator. Especial care should be taken not to prise the lid upwards, by way of wrenching it off, for the frames and combs are generally secured thereto, and there is a liability of rending the combs with it; this will greatly irritate the bees, and be otherwise injurious. When a hive of bees is really enraged there is little chance of pacifying them; if the first tokens of anger cannot be appeased it is best to "give in" at once, and not attempt to perform any operation, but to shut the hive up and beat a retreat, benefiting by the experience in order to do better a day or so afterwards. There are various devices for intimidating or conciliating the bees, and one of these, already spoken of, is smoke. So next time the experimenter makes his attempt let him raise the lid an inch or so, and blow a few puffs of smoke into the hive, which will cause the bees to retreat. Previous to this he may give a puff or two at the entrance, which will help to produce the quieting effect. This is best done by using our tube fumigator, with a little of the prepared fungus lighted. Pipes or cigars are not convenient to use for this purpose when the head is enveloped in the dress. As soon as the lid is removed a few bees will fly out to learn the cause of such an interference. Conciliation should then be offered by having at hand a little sweetened water, which may be sprinkled, or rather let drop, from a feather or a brush.[29] The sudden motion of the hand required in the act of sprinkling irritates the bees, so that, instead of making them our friends, they may become our foes. Mr. Langstroth recommends that a fine watering-pot, containing sweetened water, be used for the purpose. Care must be taken not to drench the bees; only just sufficient should be given to run down the sides of the combs, as well as sprinkle the top. As soon as the insects really understand that syrup is being given them, they feast upon it, instead of angrily attacking the operator. Thus pacified, and with gentle treatment, but little difficulty will be found in proceeding with the work required. But the unskilled operator should on no account neglect to put on a bee dress and gloves, as described above. We would err on the side of caution, although there is an old saying that "a cat in gloves catches no mice;" and the apiarian will find that his fingers are not so free to work as he would like, for gloves make them rather clumsy in drawing up the frames.
[29] An objection to, this is that robber bees are liable to be attracted from surrounding hives.