When grown under glass a day temperature of 50 degrees, falling to 45 degrees at night, is sufficient to start with, gradually increasing it so that 65 degrees by day and 55 by night is reached at the period of blossoming. Syringe the leaves daily until the flowers are produced, then discontinue it, merely keeping the walls near the pipes and the paths damp. As soon as the fruit is set the syringing should recommence. Water of the same temperature as that of the house should in all cases be used. When the fruit begins to ripen, cease once more the syringing until it is gathered, then admit air freely, wash the trees daily, and apply liquid manure to the roots in sufficient quantities to keep the soil moist during the time the trees are at rest. Rivers's Early, Pitmaston Orange, Dagmar, and Royal George are all good under glass.
Pears.—Wherever Apples are a success Pears will grow. As a rule, they are best grown dwarf. On light soils they should be grafted on to Pear stocks, but on heavy soils they are best worked on the Quince. The fruiting of young trees may be accelerated by lifting them when about five years old, spreading out the roots 1 ft. below the surface of the soil, and mulching the ground. The mulching should be raked off in the spring, the ground lightly stirred with a fork and left to sweeten, and another mulching applied when the weather becomes hot and dry. In pruning, leave the leading branches untouched, but let all cross shoots be removed, and the young wood be cut away in sufficient quantity to produce a well-balanced tree, and so equalise the flow of sap. Some of the pruning may be done in summer, but directly the leaves fall is the time to perform the main work. A good syringing once a week with the garden hose will keep the trees vigorous and free from insects. Should scab make its appearance on the leaves, spray them occasionally with Bordeaux Mixture, using the minimum strength at first, and a stronger application afterwards if necessary. There are over 500 varieties of Pears, so it is no easy matter to give a selection to suit all tastes, but a few may be named as most likely to give satisfaction. Louise Bonne de Jersey succeeds in almost any soil and in any situation, is a great favourite, and ripens its fruit in October. Beurré Giffard makes a fine standard, and ripens in July. Beurré Hardy is delicious in October and November. Doyenné du Comice is one of the best-flavoured, and is very prolific. Beurré d'Amanlis ripens in August. Williams's Bon Chrêtien, Aston Town, Pitmaston Duchess, Clapp's Favourite, Comte de Lamy, and Josephine de Malines are all reliable for dessert, while for stewing purposes Catillac, Black Pear of Worcester, Verulam, and Vicar of Winkfield are among the best. In orchards standards should be from 20 to 25 ft. apart; dwarfs 12 ft. to 1 rod.
Peas.—For the production of heavy summer and autumn crops a rich and deeply-stirred soil is essential, one of the best fertilisers being well-decayed farmyard manure; but for the earliest crop a poorer soil, if deep and well pulverised, will give the best results. Peas under 3 ft. in height do not require sticking, but they can be more easily gathered if a few small twigs are used to keep the haulm off the ground. If sown in successive lines the space between the rows should correspond with the height of the variety grown. A good plan is to arrange the rows 10 or 15 ft. apart, and crop the intervening spaces with early dwarf vegetables. The earliest varieties may be sown from November to February, on the warmest and most sheltered border: these may be gathered in May and June. The second early round, varieties, if sown from January to April, will be ready for gathering in June and July. The main crop round varieties may be sown from February to May: these will be ready to gather in July and August. The early wrinkled varieties may be sown from March to June, for gathering between June and September. Sow main crop and late varieties at intervals of fourteen days from March to May: these will be ready to gather in July, August, and September. When the plants are a couple of inches high draw the earth neatly round them, and stake the taller varieties as soon as the tendrils appear. Keep them well watered in dry weather, and if on a light soil a mulching of manure will be beneficial. As soon as the pods are setting apply weak liquid manure to the roots when the ground is moist.
Peas, Everlasting (Lathyrus Latifolia).—These well-known and favourite hardy perennials are very useful for covering trellises, etc. They will grow in any garden soil, and may be raised from seed sown early in spring in slight heat. Where there is no greenhouse or frame the seed may be planted, about ½ in. deep, round the edges of pots filled with nice, light soil, and covered with a sheet of glass, keeping the soil moist till the seed germinates. When the plants are strong enough they may be placed in their permanent quarters. They bloom from June to September. Old roots may be divided. Height, 6 ft.
Peas, Sweet.—These most beautiful and profuse blooming hardy annuals will grow almost anywhere, but they prefer a dry soil that is both rich and light. The seed should be sown as early in March as practicable, and in April and May for succession. When the plants are 2 or 3 in. high a few twigs may be placed among them, to which they will cling. The flowers are produced in July, and the more liberally they are gathered the longer the plants will continue to bloom. Height, 3 ft.
Pelargonium.—The shrubby kinds will grow well in any rich soil; loam and decayed leaves form a good compost for them. They require good drainage and plenty of air and light while in a vigorous state. Cuttings root readily in either soil or sand, especially if placed under glass. Most of the hard-wooded varieties are more easily increased by cuttings from the roots. The tuberous-rooted ones should be kept quite dry while dormant, and may be increased by small off-sets from the roots.
Pentstemon.—This charming hardy perennial is deserving of a place in every garden. It may be grown in any good soil, but a mixture of loam and peat is most suitable. The seed may be sown in April, and the plants transferred when strong enough to their flowering quarters; or it may be sown in a sheltered position during August or September to stand the winter. It may also be increased by dividing the roots in spring, as soon as growth begins. Cuttings of the young side-shoots about 6 in. long may be taken at any period—the middle of September is a good time; these should be placed under a hand-glass in sandy loam and leaf-mould. These cuttings will flower the first year. It blooms from May to October. Height, 2 ft.
Peppermint.—This may be grown on any damp or marshy soil, and increased by dividing the roots.
Perennials.—These are plants that die down during the winter, but spring up and produce new stems annually. Some, as for instance Antirrhinums and Pansies, flower the first season, but usually they do not bloom till the second season. Many of the species improve by age, forming large clumps or bushes. The stock is increased by division of the roots, which, if judiciously done, improves the plant. Like annuals, they are divided into classes of Hardy, Half-hardy, and Tender plants.
Hardy perennials do not require artificial heat to germinate the seeds, or at any period of their growth, but are the most easily cultivated of all plants. Seed may be sown from March to midsummer, transplanting in the autumn to their flowering quarters; or it may be sown in August and September in a sheltered position to stand the winter.