PARÁ. | |
| Arrival at Pará—Appearance of the city and its environs—The inhabitants and their costume—Vegetation—Sensitive plants—Lizards—Ants and other insects—Birds—Climate—Food of the inhabitants | 1 |
PARÁ. | |
| Festas—Portuguese and Brazilian currency—M. Borlaz’ estate—Walk to the rice-mills—The virgin forest, its plants and insects—Milk-tree—Saw and rice-mills—Caripé or pottery-tree—India-rubber tree—Flowers and trees in blossom—Saüba ants, wasps, and chegoes—Journey by water to Magoary—The monkeys—The commandante at Laranjeiras—Vampire bats—The timber-trade—Boa constrictor and Sloth | 18 |
THE TOCANTINS. | |
| Canoe, stores, and crew—River Mojú—Igaripé Miri—Cametá—Senhor Gomez and his establishment—Search for a dinner—Jambouassú—Polite letter—Bãiao and its inhabitants—A swarm of wasps—Enter the rocky district—The Mutuca—Difficulty of getting men—A village without houses—Catching an alligator—Duck-shooting—Aroyas, and the Falls—A nocturnal concert—Blue Macaws—Turtles’ eggs—A slight accident—Capabilities of the country—Return to Pará | 50 |
MEXIANA AND MARAJÓ. | |
| Visit to Olería—Habits of Birds—Voyage to Mexiana—Arrival—Birds—Description of the Island—Population—Slaves, their treatment and habits—Journey to the Lake—Beautiful stream—Fish and Birds at the Lake—Catching Alligators—Strange sounds, and abundance of Animal Life—Walk back—Jaguar meat—Visit to Jungcal in Marajó—Embarking cattle—Ilha das Frechas | 82 |
THE GUAMÁ AND CAPIM RIVERS. | |
| Natterer’s hunter, Luiz—Birds and insects—Prepare for a journey—First sight of the Piroróco—St. Domingo—Senhor Calistro—Slaves and slavery—Anecdote—Cane-field—Journey into the forest—Game—Explanation of the Piroróco—Return to Pará—Bell-birds and yellow parrots | 112 |
SANTAREM AND MONTEALEGRE. | |
| Leave Pará—Enter the Amazon—Its peculiar features—Arrive at Santarem—The town and its inhabitants—Voyage to Montealegre—Mosquito plague and its remedy—Journey to the Serras—A cattle estate—Rocks, picture-writings, and cave—The Victoria regia—Mandiocca fields—A festa—Return to Santarem—Beautiful insects—Curious tidal phenomenon—Leave Santarem—Obydos—Villa Nova—A kind priest—Serpa—Christmas Day on the Amazon | 134 |
BARRA DO RIO NEGRO AND THE SOLIMÕES. | |
| Appearance of the Rio Negro—The city of Barra, its trade and its inhabitants—Journey up the Rio Negro—The Lingoa Geral—The umbrella bird—Mode of life of the Indians—Return to Barra—Strangers in the city—Visit to the Solimões—The Gapó—Manaquerey—Country life—Curl-crested Araçaris—Vultures and Onças—Tobacco growing and manufacture—The Cow-fish—Senhor Brandão—A fishing party with Senhor Henrique—Letters from England | 163 |
THE UPPER RIO NEGRO. | |
| Quit Barra for the Upper Rio Negro—Canoe and Cargo—Great width of the river—Carvoeiro and Barcellos—Granite rocks—Castanheiro—A polite old gentleman—São Jozé—A new language—The cataracts—São Gabriel—Nossa Senhora da Guia—Senhor L. and his family—Visit to the river Cobati—An Indian village—The Serra—Cocks of the rock—Return to Guia—Frei Jozé dos Santos Innocentos | 194 |
JAVITA. | |
| Leave Guía—Marabitánas—Serra de Cocoí—Enter Venezuela—São Carlos—Pass the Cassiquiare—Antonio Dias—Indian shipbuilders—Feather-work—Maróa and Pimichín—A black Jaguar—Poisonous serpents—Fishing—Walk to Javíta—Residence there—Indian road-makers—Language and customs—A description of Javíta—Runaway Indians—Collections at Javíta—Return to Tómo—A domestic broil—Marabitánas and its inhabitants—Reach Guía | 231 |
FIRST ASCENT OF THE RIVER UAUPÉS. | |
| Rapid Current—An Indian Malocca—The Inmates—A Festival—Paint and ornaments—Illness—São Jeronymo—Passing the Cataracts—Jauarité—The Tushaúa Calistro—Singular Palm—Birds—Cheap provisions—Edible Ants, and Earthworms—A grand dance—Feather ornaments—The snake-dance—The Capí—A State cigar—Ananárapicóma—Fish—Chegoes—Pass down the Falls—Tame Birds—Orchids—Piums—Eating dirt—Poisoning—Return to Guia—Manoel Joaquim—Annoying delays | 273 |
ON THE RIO NEGRO. | |
| Difficulties of starting—Descending the Falls—Catching an Alligator—Tame Parrots—A fortnight in Barra—Frei Jozé’s diplomacy—Pickling a Cow-fish—A river storm—Brazilian veracity—Wanawáca—Productiveness of the country—A large Snake—São Gabriel—São Joaquim—Fever and Ague | 316 |
THE CATARACTS OF THE UAUPÉS. | |
| Start for the Uaupés—São Jeronymo and Jauarité—Indians run away—Numerous cataracts—Reach Carurú—Difficult passage—Painted Malocca—Devil Music—More falls—Ocokí—Curious rocks—Reach Uarucapurí—Cobeu Indians—Reach Mucúra—An Indian’s house and family—Height above the sea—Tenente Jesuino—Return to Uarucapurí—Indian prisoners—Voyage to Jauarité—Correcting the calendar—Delay at São Jeronymo | 341 |
SÃO JERONYMO TO THE DOWNS. | |
| Voyage down the Rio Negro—Arrive at Barra—Obtaining a passport—State of the city—Portuguese and Brazilian enterprise—System of credit—Trade—Immorality, and its causes—Leave Barra—A storm on the Amazon—Salsaparilha—A tale about Death—Pará—The yellow fever—Sail for England—Ship takes fire—Ten days in the boats—Get picked up—Heavy gales—Short of provisions—Storm in the Channel—Arrive at Deal | 369 |
| THE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY OF THE AMAZON VALLEY | 404 |
| VEGETATION OF THE AMAZON VALLEY | 432 |
| OBSERVATIONS ON THE ZOOLOGY OF THE AMAZON DISTRICT | 446 |
| ON THE ABORIGINES OF THE AMAZON | 476 |
| VOCABULARIES OF AMAZONIAN LANGUAGES | 521 |
C. Achilles lich.
Printed by F. Reeve.
TRAVELS
ON THE
AMAZON AND RIO NEGRO.
CHAPTER I.
PARÁ.
Arrival at Pará—Appearance of the city and its environs—The inhabitants and their costume—Vegetation—Sensitive plants—Lizards—Ants and other insects—Birds—Climate—Food of the inhabitants.
It was on the morning of the 26th of May, 1848, that after a short passage of twenty-nine days from Liverpool, we came to anchor opposite the southern entrance to the River Amazon, and obtained our first view of South America. In the afternoon the pilot came on board, and the next morning we sailed with a fair wind up the river, which for fifty miles could only be distinguished from the ocean by its calmness and discoloured water, the northern shore being invisible, and the southern at a distance of ten or twelve miles. Early on the morning of the 28th we again anchored; and when the sun rose in a cloudless sky, the city of Pará, surrounded by the dense forest, and overtopped by palms and plantains, greeted our sight, appearing doubly beautiful from the presence of those luxuriant tropical productions in a state of nature, which we had so often admired in the conservatories of Kew and Chatsworth. The canoes passing with their motley crews of Negroes and Indians, the vultures soaring overhead or walking lazily about the beach, and the crowds of swallows on the churches and house-tops, all served to occupy our attention till the Custom-house officers visited us, and we were allowed to go on shore.