The Bermudas are a small group of low islands formed of coral, and blown coral-sand consolidated into rock. They are situated in 32° N. Lat., about 700 miles from North Carolina, and somewhat farther from the Bahama Islands, and are thus rather more favourably placed for receiving immigrants from America and its islands than the Azores are with respect to Europe. There are about 100 islands and islets in all, but their total area does not exceed fifty square miles. They are surrounded by reefs, some at a distance of thirty miles from the main group; and the discovery of a layer of earth with remains of cedar-trees forty-eight feet below the present high-water mark shows that the islands have once been more extensive and probably included the whole area now occupied by shoals and reefs.[[106]] Immediately beyond these reefs,
however, extends a very deep ocean, while about 450 miles distant in a south-east direction, the deepest part of the North Atlantic is reached, where soundings of 3,825 and 3,875 fathoms have been obtained. It is clear therefore that these islands are typically oceanic.
| Note.— | The light tint | indicates | sea | less than 1,000 fathoms deep. |
| The dark tint | " | " | more than 1,000 fathoms deep. | |
| The figures show the depth in fathoms. | ||||
Soundings were taken by the Challenger in four
different directions around Bermuda, and always showed a rapid deepening of the sea to about 2,500 fathoms. This was so remarkable, that in his reports to the Admiralty, Captain Nares spoke of Bermuda as "a solitary peak rising abruptly from a base only 120 miles in diameter;" and in another place as "an isolated peak rising abruptly from a very small base." These expressions show that Bermuda is looked upon as a typical example of an "oceanic peak"; and on examining the series of official reports of the Challenger soundings, I can find no similar case, although some coasts, both of continents and islands, descend more abruptly. In order to show, therefore, what is the real character of this peak, I have drawn a section of it on a true scale from the soundings taken in a north and south direction where the descent is steepest. It will be seen that the slope is on both sides very easy, being 1 in 16 on the south, and 1 in 19 on the north. The portion nearest the islands will slope more rapidly, perhaps reaching in places 1 in 10; but even this is not steeper than many country roads in hilly countries, while the remainder would be a hardly perceptible slope. Although generally very low, some parts of these islands rise to 250 feet above the sea-level, consisting of various kinds of limestone rock, sometimes soft and friable, but often very hard and even crystalline. It consists of beds which sometimes dip as much as 30°, and which also show great contortions, so that at first sight the islands appear to exhibit on a small scale the phenomena of a disturbed Palæozoic district. It has however long been known that these rocks are all due to the wind,
which blows up the fine calcareous sand, the product of the disintegration of coral, shells, serpulæ, and other organisms, forming sand-hills forty and fifty feet high, which move gradually along, overwhelming the lower tracts of land behind them. These are consolidated by the percolation of rain-water, which dissolves some of the lime from the more porous tracts and deposits it lower down, filling every fissure with stalagmite.
The figures show the depth in fathoms at fifty-five miles north and forty-six miles south of the islands respectively.
The Red Clay of Bermuda.—Besides the calcareous rocks there is found in many parts of the islands a layer of red earth or clay, containing about thirty per cent. of oxide of iron. This very closely resembles, both in colour and chemical composition, the red clay of the ocean floor, found widely spread in the Atlantic at depths of from 2,300 to 3,150 fathoms, and occurring abundantly all round Bermuda. It appears, therefore, at first sight, as if the ocean bed itself has been here raised to the surface, and a portion of its covering of red clay preserved; and this is the view adopted by Mr. Jones in his paper on the "Botany of Bermuda." He says, after giving the analysis: "This analysis tends to convince us that the deep chocolate-coloured red clay of the islands found in the lower levels, and from high-water mark some distance into the sea, originally came from the ocean floor, and that when by volcanic agency the Bermuda column was raised from the depths of the sea, its summit, most probably broken in outline, appeared above the surface covered with this red mud, which in the course of ages has but slightly changed its composition, and yet possesses sufficient evidence to prove its identity with that now lying contiguous to the base of the Bermuda column." But in his Guide to Bermuda Mr. Jones tells us that this same red earth has been found, two feet thick, under coral rock at a depth of forty-two feet below low-water mark, and that it "rested on a bed of compact calcareous sandstone." Now it is quite certain that this "calcareous sandstone" was never formed at the bottom of the deep ocean 700 miles from land; and the occurrence of the red earth at different levels upon coralline sand rock is therefore more probably due to some process of decomposition of the rock itself,