That our eye would soon get used to admiring a different shape may be easily proven by any one who will for a short time wear shoes constructed upon a more correct principle. The prevailing shoe, suggestive of cramped and atrophied toes, soon becomes positively painful to look upon! These improved shoes are gradually gaining ground even in the fashionable world. We see them worn by the best dressed ladies on the streets of our cities. They are found in show cases and windows of shoe-dealers who clothe the feet of aristocracy.
If one persists in wearing the customary shoe in pregnancy, the feet may swell, and untold discomfort result. Relief is frequently obtained at the expense of the husband’s slippers. Let him provide his wife a pair of youth’s slippers at least two sizes larger than those she ordinarily wears. This will save his Christmas gift and possibly teach the wife a valuable lesson about common sense shoes.
In the Union Under Garments, or combination suits, there is a world of comfort and freedom. No woman once adopting these garments, properly fitted, will “back-slide” to the old chemise and drawers.
The chemise, as the word indicates, is of Arabic origin. Being made of wash material, its original intent was to protect other clothing from emanations of the body. In its native country it is high necked and long sleeved. Its present uncomfortable style had its origin with Parisian demi-monde. It constricts the shoulders, and affords insufficient warmth to the arms and upper part of the back and chest. The superior portion of the lungs needs even more protection than the lower, especially on the back. The drawers can never be so adjusted that the band will allow the free use and development of the muscles upon which it presses.
The union suits can be found in dress reform rooms, and in most shops. They are made of silk, all wool, half-wool, and lisle thread. Not being able to procure them, one can herself readily convert the ordinary undergarments into a union suit. Rip off the band from the drawers, try them on with the vest, and adjust them perfectly. Remove the surplus length in the front from the drawers, and in the back from the vest; put them together with a lap seam, leaving the extra fullness of the drawers in the back. In this way a satisfactory suit can be produced. These can be worn winter and summer, if demanded by the needs of the climate or individual.
The chemiloon is a union of the chemise and drawers. In the summer this garment can be made of cotton or linen, and worn with or without the union under flannels. It can be trimmed and embroidered to one’s taste. In the winter it should be of flannel or ladies’ cloth. Chemiloon patterns can be obtained of pattern dealers. Do not expect that other people’s patterns, or those that you buy will be perfectly adapted to you. It is well to fit a suit from old material first. Be sure that it is sufficiently long in the back. Shortness in the seat is a prevailing fault with patterns for sale. Remedy this by putting a two inch fold in the cloth on the side, where the back of the pattern comes. The sleeves of these chemiloons should be long, especially the flannel for winter. Remember always that the comfort of these garments depends upon a perfect fit.
A princess garment is a waist and skirt combined. This can be made of muslin, pongee, or other wash silks. For extra warmth use of tennis flannel. It can be cut from a polonaise or princess dress pattern, having it about the length of an ordinary underskirt.
This undergarment can have eyelet lacings in the front darts and thus make it adjustable to the increasing size.
A princess lining to a dress with the same dart lacings makes a convenient maternity gown. The outside goods of any material can be draped upon this according to taste or fashion.
The Divided Skirt has become a popular garment with those making a change in dress. This is made of pongee or other wash silks, mohair or ladies’ cloth. It is cut like drawers, but has a width of 44 to 50 inches of goods in each leg. This is attached to a yoke, instead of a band, and cut on the bias, to fit the hips. A combination of the Divided Skirt and Bates Waist makes a very satisfactory garment. This is made by cutting the front of the waist and the skirt or drawers in one. The back of the skirt is cut separate from the waist, and made longer at the top. The extra fullness is put in at the hips and back. It should lap about two inches in the back. This is worn over a union suit, and takes the place of all underskirts or petticoats.