The welts or wings named in the early sumptuary laws were the pieces of cloth set at the shoulder over the arm-hole where body and sleeves meet. The welt was at first a sort of epaulet, but grew longer and often set out, thus deserving its title of wings.
A dress of the times is thus described:—
“His doublet was of a strange cut, the collar of it was up so high and sharp as it would cut his throat. His wings according to the fashion now were as little and diminutive as a Puritan’s ruff.”
A note to this says that “wings were lateral projections, extending from each shoulder”—a good round sentence that by itself really means nothing. Ben Jonson calls them “puff-wings.”
There is one positive rule in the shape of doublets; they were always welted at the arm-hole. Possibly the sleeves were sometimes sewn in, but even then there was always a cap, a welt or a hanging sleeve or some edging. In the illustrations of the Roxburghe Ballads there is not a doublet or jerkin on man, woman, or child but is thus welted. Some trimming around the arm-hole was a law. This lasted until the coat was wholly evolved. This had sleeves, and the shoulder-welt vanished.
These welts were often turreted or cut in squares. You will note this turreted shoulder in some form on nearly all the doublets given in the portraits displayed in this book—both on men and women. For doublets were also worn by women. Stubbes says, “Though this be a kind of attire proper only to a man, yet they blush not to wear it.” The old print of the infamous Mrs. Turner given [here] shows her in a doublet.
James, Duke of York.
Another author complains:—