London
CHATTO AND WINDUS, PICCADILLY
1878

[All rights reserved]

PREFACE.

Italy—about which so much has been written—political, geographical, social, pontifical, poetical—Italy is my theme. But not the Italy of popes and priests and controversies, of civic struggles and new kingdoms, nor the Italy of tourists or guide-books, of fame and fashion, nor even the Italy of art and artists. The folk about whom my gossip shall be are folk who, living or dead, have made the best part of Italy these many years gone by. They are those who, unwittingly, inherit most of the poetry for which their nation, long ago, won its fame; on them—innocent of lore and reading though they, most of them, be—has fallen something that recalls the great names of their own great men of the past. They are of the people. To them rather than to others in the land belong the freedom and freshness, the grace and good-heartedness, the frank honesty that finds a place even beside worldly-wise prudence, the simple and courteous dignity which the educated classes have not always been able to maintain. No one who has lived long beside them could have failed to learn the grace of their ways, the humour of their rustic simplicity; no one who has grown up in their midst could ever forget their pleasant faces and quaint enthusiasms, their friendly greetings, their frank speech and emphatic opinions.

I, who thus learned to know them in days gone by, can, at all events, never so forget; and I am fain now to set down some memory of those sun-lit scenes of the past, for friends whose lot has never been cast, as mine was, among them. My sketches will not always be portraits of living people or existing things, but they will always be sketches of things or friends that have been: recollections vignetted in the past, rather than photographs taken on the spot. And so, if anyone should discover aught that is inaccurate towards the present, let him go back a space upon the steps of time and live away fifteen years beside the country housekeeper or la Pettinatrice, in the Signor Prevosto’s company or with the village sempstress. For to these will I go for a verdict, and to these—not my readers, because they will not read what I have written, but my staunch supporters always—to the people of the Riviera and the Apennines I now dedicate ‘North Italian Folk.’

ALICE CARR.

CONTENTS

Part One.
ON THE RIVIERA.
PAGE
Genoa [3]
Martedì Grasso (Shrove Tuesday) [9]
La Fioraja (The Flower Girl) [20]
La Festa delle Palme [28]
Holy Week and Easter Feasts (I Sepolcri) [39]
La Fantesca (The Servant Wench) [46]
Il Negoziante (The Shopman) [57]
La Pettinatrice (The Hairdresser) [67]
Fisher-Folk [77]
Santa Margherita [87]
The Lace Weaver [97]
Il Manente (The Husbandman) [106]
La Donna di Casa (The Country Housekeeper) [116]
Bathing Time [125]
Part Two.
IN THE APENNINES.
PAGE
The Mountains [137]
At the Chestnut Harvest [156]
Under the Cherry Trees (The Bridal) [165]
The Parish Priest [175]
The Priest’s Serving Maid [185]
Il Signor Cappellano [191]
Sweeping the Church [200]
The Village Sempstress [208]
The Village Damsel [217]
The Village Swain [231]
The Love-letter [240]
La Cresima (The Confirmation Day) [252]
In Villeggiatura (Town Folk in the Country) [263]
Conclusion.
Il Corpus Domini (The Procession) [275]

FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.

View of Genoa, from the Terrace of the Acquasola [Frontispiece]
The Flower Girl To face p. [24]
The Lace Weaver [98]
The Husbandman [114]
Gossip [170]
The Parish Priest [182]
Il Signor Cappellano [194]
The Village Sempstress [210]
The Love-letter [246]
In Villeggiatura [266]