If the left-hand paper should be tight and the right-hand paper loose, loosen the front pot screw at the left and turn in on the back screw. This will move the left end of the mouthpiece farther back. Adjust with the front and back screws in this manner until both papers are held tightly.
After completing the adjustment, replace the cap on the mold and turn the machine to normal position.
Another method of testing the pot lockup is to let the machine make the quarter revolution which brings the mold in front of the mouthpiece. Disconnect the mold lever and pull the mold slide forward. Apply a thin even coating of a mixture of red lead and oil, or printers’ ink, to the back of the mold. Be sure to have the mold clean. Hold out the mold disk driving pinion, so the disk will not revolve, and let the machine run around without casting. The mixture will transfer from the mold to the mouthpiece. If the mouthpiece is touching only on one end of the mold it can be adjusted by the screws in the sides of the pot legs. Adjust them to swing the crucible to bring about a tight fit, repeating the above test until the transfer is registering evenly the full length of the mouthpiece. After each test wipe off the mouthpiece and mold, for any oil or too much red lead or ink would give a false impression.
If the mouthpiece touches at both ends and not in the center or in the center and not on the ends, it indicates that the mouthpiece is warped and the above adjustments would not be satisfactory.
When the mouthpiece is warped or high, it is necessary to take out the high spots with a fine file or an oil stone. Take off a very little of the surface at a time and repeat the tests with the red lead until a proper lockup is secured all the way across the mouthpiece.
After fitting up a mouthpiece in this manner, the vents should be cut to their original depth.
After making the pot adjustments, test the mold slide adjustment to make sure that it brings the face of the mold to within .010 of an inch from the face of the matrices. See that the pot lever has the 1/16 of an inch play needed during lockup.
Be sure the washers on the pot lever shaft are so placed that the sides of the lever do not bear on the cams.
Pot Lever
The pot lever is located directly back of the metal pot and, through cam No. 8 and the pot cam roller, gives the pot its forward and backward action. There is a cushion spring on the pot lever eyebolt that connects the lower end of the pot lever to the pot jacket. This spring gives the lockup of the pot and mold and takes up all excess motion of the lever during the lockup.