Moving the handle up or down engages less or more blades, the length being indicated on the pica gauge in the delivery channel.
To remove the mold slide on machines which have a universal ejector, lower the vise to second position, set the ejector at 10 or 12 ems, take out the ejector blade controller link which screws into the controller link lift. This will permit the controller bar to drop out. Disconnect the mold slide and take out the ejector lever link. If the machine is connected up with the water for cooling the molds, it will be necessary to disconnect the hose before taking out the slide.
Removing a Stuck Slug
When there is a slug stuck in the mold, allow the machine to come to normal by backing the machine sufficiently to allow the ejector lever pawl to be raised, draw back on the ejector lever until the pawl clears the ejector cam. Pull out the starting lever allowing the machine to come to normal. Open the vise and remove the slug from the mold by loosening the mold cap screws. Do not drive a stuck slug out with the ejector blade.
MOLD KNIFE
The mold or back knife trims the base of the slug and is fastened to the mold slide arm, back of the mold disk. It is placed at an angle of about 45 degrees and is held by two washers and two round-head screws which pass through the slotted holes of the knife. It is also held by two adjusting screws that set against the base so that the knife will set squarely and press lightly against the mold as the disk is turned from casting to the ejecting position. As the mold passes in front of the knife, the slug should be trimmed type-high, which is .918 of an inch.
The front of the mold disk, when turning, must be bearing against the mold disk guide so as to keep the mold against the knife while the slug is being trimmed. If the mold disk guide does not set snugly against the disk, the disk will spring away from the knife and the slug will be higher on one end than the other. The guide is adjusted by loosening the screw which holds it to the mold slide and moving it snugly against the mold disk. Do not set the guide tight enough to bind and prevent the free turning of the disk.
It sometimes happens that a disk will bind at one or more places as it is being turned. This is due to the disk becoming warped from heat or some other cause. If it is only a slight bind it will not interfere with the adjustment.
Whenever it is necessary to put on a new or resharpened mold knife, or to adjust it, be sure the mold disk guide is bearing against the rim of the mold disk. It is always better to remove the guide and clean it as it must be perfectly clean when it seats against the disk. Always have the knife away from the mold when seating the guide. Tighten the hexagon head screw slightly and then tap the guide until a slight pressure against the disk is secured. Turn the disk by hand until an even pressure has been secured and then tighten the hexagon head nut tight.
Place the mold knife on the knife seat; be sure the seat is clean, for the least particle of dirt or metal will make it more difficult to make the adjustment. Also the bottom of the mold must be perfectly clean and free from all metal. Set the knife square with, but not quite touching the mold. Tighten down on the two round-head screws, then adjust with the two screws under the bottom of knife so that mold will turn without binding. The left-hand end of the knife trims the ends of the slugs; the center of the knife trims the center of the slugs. Avoid excessive pressure on either side as the knife is so shaped that the sharp edge should just touch the mold.