Cleaning Paper-Hangings.—A very good method to clean paper-hangings is that used oftentimes in cleaning the margins of prints. Cut into eight pieces a quartern loaf two days old, and after having swept all the dust from the paper-hangings, commence from the ceiling downward, and somewhat lightly rub the paper with a downward stroke with one of the pieces of bread. Continue this round the room, and then commence lower down in the same way till the whole of the surface of the paper has been gone over. The bread will from time to time get dirty, and it should be cut off as often as required. Care should be exercised not to rub the paper with a cross or horizontal stroke, only with the perpendicular movement of the hand or the paper may peel off the walls from the joints. With careful manipulation, paper will look almost as good as new.
Varnishing Paper-hangings.—When papers are hung in places where there is much passing, they are subject to greater wear than in an ordinary room, and varnishing is resorted to, to make them more durable, as it prevents soiling; they may also be cleaned with a damp cloth, and are not in wear so likely to be damaged by rubbing off the wall. Halls, lobbies, staircases, and offices are sometimes varnished for durability, but as a rule the appearance is not improved. The paper must be sized twice, the first being dry before the next is applied, when the varnish is laid evenly on. It is necessary to size the paper twice, as the first time may not effectually cover it, when the varnish would stain the paper as badly as if oil had been applied. The size necessary for sizing the paper before varnishing should be clean and transparent. Parchment cuttings boiled down in water and strained will make excellent size for this purpose. Before it is cold it should be either strained through calico, or poured off, leaving the bits at the bottom. A patent size is sold for this purpose, but parchment size is the most reliable. Use clean brushes for size and varnish.
A Paste that will Keep Well.—A correspondent writes to a journal this formula for a non-poisonous paste that will keep well in hot weather: Wheat flour, 1 ounce; powdered alum, ¹⁄₂ drachm; water, sufficient, or 8 ounces; oil of clove, or wintergreen, 3 or 4 drops. Rub the flour and the alum with the water to the consistency of milk; place this over a moderate fire, and stir constantly, until the paste drops from the wooden paddle in jelly-like flakes, and has the appearance of glycerite of starch. While the mass is still hot, add the essential oil, and pour the paste into an earthenware pot or open jar. In the course of about an hour a crust forms on the top; pour gently on this an inch of water, more or less. When some paste is wanted, decant the water, take out the quantity needed, and put some water again on the remainder, repeating the operation each time. Paste may be kept in this way for months, and will never be troubled with flies.
USEFUL HINTS FOR ESTIMATING COST OF WORK AND MATERIALS.
All surface painting is measured by the superficial yard, girting every part of the work covered, always making allowance for the deep cuttings in mouldings, carved work, railings or other work that is difficult to get at.
Where work is very high and scaffolding or ladders have to be employed, allowances must be made.
The following rules are generally adopted in this country in the measurement of work. Surfaces under six inches in width or girt are called 6 inches; from six to 12 inches, 12 inches; over 12 inches measured superficial. Openings are deducted, but all jambs, reveals or casings are measured girt.
Sashes are measured solid if more than two lights. Doors, shutters and paneling are measured by the girt, running the tape in all quirks, angles or corners. Sash doors measure solid. Glazing in both windows and doors is always extra. The tape should be run close in over the battens, on batten doors, and if the stuff is beaded, add one inch in width for each bead.
Venetian blinds are measured double. Dentels, brackets, medallions, ornamented iron work, balusters, lattice work, palings or turned work should all be measured double. Changing colors on base boards, panels, cornices, or other work, one-fourth extra measurement should be allowed for each tint.