An extract from my journal for a few days will give a clearer insight into African travelling than any other description.
From the Tati gold-fields to Gubuluwayo, the military kraal, distance 126 miles.
December 8th, 1877.—Inspanned at 4 p.m. for the interior. Treked about a mile, when my oxen, frightened by lions, turned suddenly round, and broke the desselboom of the waggon. I had to splice it, and return to Tati station in the evening.
9th.—Kept awake all night by lions. Out all day in the bush, looking for a suitable tree to cut down, to make desselboom; the knopjiesdoorn or lignum-vitae is the best. I went with rifle and Kaffir with axe all round the hills, and at last found a straight one, which we cut down and brought to camp.
10th, Sunday.—A very wet, stormy day; severe thunderstorm. Mr Scott returned from Macloutsie river, there being no water on the road to Mongwato.
11th, Monday.—Very hot day. Thermometer in shade 96 degrees. Barometer 26.75; altitude at this station 3740, and at the river 3100 feet above sea-level. Lions and wolves making noises all night. Mr Lee’s two married daughters came in from the hunting-veldt. We went out to examine an ancient fort, and look over old gold-diggings, Mr McArthur making my desselboom, 3 p.m. News brought in that camels and elephants are passing within four miles to the north-west. McArthur and self saddle up, and after a ride of three miles, fall in with four giraffes. Shot one, rode back, sent waggon on and followed, and brought back a waggon-load of meat. Arrived in camp, 9 p.m., thoroughly tired and hungry. Had a grand supper at McArthur’s store, a glass of toddy, and to bed at 11 p.m.
12th.—Out shooting all day with McArthur. Passed close to a lion in the bush, shot at him but missed, and he made off. A fearful storm in the night.
13th.—Two white men came in from Gubuluwayo, they tell us Lo-Bengulu will not allow any white men in the Mashona country, and has sent out a thousand Kaffirs to drive away the game, and annoy the hunters in the hunting-veldt. Scott, Kurton, and many others have been robbed by the Makalakas, and the king will give no satisfaction. Many of the traders have been threatened with the assagai, and one’s life is not safe in the country. Thermometer 98 degrees. Visited the ancient forts to take measurements, and procure some pretty birds, of which this country is full. Mr Brown, who has a store here, is very clever in preserving them.
14th.—McArthur making my desselboom. Thermometer 101 degrees. Four waggons have come down, some from Panda-ma-Tenka. The hunters up there have done nothing, the game having all been driven away by the natives. Trade is bad and everything in confusion. Those come in to-day are Wiltshire, Gordon, Fry, and four others.
15th.—Desselboom finished. Very warm, 104 degrees. Out exploring amongst the hills, and also on the 16th.