A Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures and Mines / containing a clear exposition of their principles and practice

by Andrew Ure

For the dyeing of raw silk black, it is galled in the cold, with the bath of galls which has already served for the black of boiled silk. For this purpose, silk, in its native yellow colour, is made choice of. It should be remarked, that when it is desired to preserve a portion of the gum of the silk, which is afterwards made flexible, the galling is given with the hot bath of gall-nuts in the ordinary manner. But here, where the whole gum of the silk, and its concomitant elasticity, are to be preserved, the galling is made in the cold. If the infusion of galls be weak, the silk is left in it for several days.

Silk thus prepared and washed takes very easily the black dye, and the rinsing in a little water, to which sulphate of iron may be added, is sufficient to give it. The dye is made in the cold; but, according to the greater or less strength of the rinsings, it requires more or less time. Occasionally three or four days are necessary; after which it is washed, it is beetled once or twice, and it is then dried without wringing, to avoid softening it.

Raw silk may be more quickly dyed, by shaking it round the rods in the cold bath after the galling, airing it, and repeating these manipulations several times, after which it is washed and dried as above.

Macquer describes a more simple process for the black by which velvet is dyed at Genoa; and he says that this process, rendered still simpler, has had complete success at Tours. The following is his description.

For 1 cwt. (50 kilogrammes) silk, (22 lbs. 11 kilogrammes) of Aleppo galls, in powder, are boiled for an hour in a sufficient quantity of water. The bath is allowed to settle till the galls have fallen to the bottom of the boiler, from which they are withdrawn; after which 32 lbs. of English vitriol (or copperas) are introduced, with 13 lbs. of iron filings, and 22 lbs. of country gum, put into a kind of two-handled cullender, pierced every where with holes. This kettle is suspended by two rods in the boiler, so as not to reach the bottom. The gum is left to dissolve for about an hour, stirring it from time to time. If, after this time, some gum remains in the kettle, it is a proof that the bath, which contains two hogsheads, has taken as much of it as is necessary. If, on the contrary, the whole gum is dissolved, from one to 4 lbs. more may be added. This cullender is left constantly suspended in the boiler, from which it is removed only when the dyeing is going on; and thereafter it is replaced. During all these operations the boiler must be kept hot, but without boiling. The galling of the silk is performed with one third of Aleppo galls. The silk is left in it for six hours the first time, then for twelve hours. The rest, secundum artem.

Lewis states that he has repeated this process in the small way; and that, by adding sulphate of iron progressively, and repeating the immersions of the silk a great number of times, he eventually obtained a fine black.

Astringents differ from one another as to the quantity of the principle which enters into combination with the oxide of iron. Hence, the proportion of the sulphate, or of any other salt of iron, and that of the astringents, should vary according to the astringents made use of, and according to their respective quantities. Gall-nut is the substance which contains most astringent; sumach, which seems second to it in this respect, throws down (decomposes), however, only half as much sulphate of iron.

The most suitable proportion of sulphate of iron appears to be that which corresponds to the quantity of the astringent matter, so that the whole iron precipitable by the astringent may be thrown down, and the whole astringent may be taken up in combination with the iron. As it is not possible, however, to arrive at such precision, it is better that the sulphate of iron should predominate, because the astringent, when in excess, counteracts the precipitation of the black colouring particles, and has the property of even dissolving them.

This action of the astringent is such that, if a pattern of black cloth be boiled with gall-nuts, it is reducible to grey. An observation of Lewis may thence be explained. If cloth be turned several times through the colouring bath, after it has taken a good black colour, instead of acquiring more body, it is weakened, and becomes brownish. Too considerable a quantity of the ingredients produces the same effect; to which the sulphuric acid, set at liberty by the precipitation of the oxide of iron, contributes.

It is merely the highly oxidised sulphate which is decomposed by the astringent; whence it appears, that the sulphate will produce a different effect according to its state of oxidisement, and call for other proportions. Some advise, therefore, to follow the method of Proust, employing it in the oxidised state; but in this case it is only partially decomposed, and another part is brought, by the action of the astringent, into the lower degree of oxidisement.