Calender.[Fig. 120.] is a cross section of this machine, and figs. 119. 121. are front views broken off. The goods are first rolled upon the wooden cylinder a, near the ground; by the tension roller b, upon the same cylinder, the goods receive a proper degree of stretching in the winding off. They then pass over the spreading bars c c c, by which they are still more distended; next round the hollow iron cylinder d, 16 inches diameter, and the paper cylinder e, of like dimensions; thence they proceed under the second massive iron cylinder f, of 8 inches diameter, to be finally wound about the projecting wooden roller g. This is set in motion by the pulleys h, [fig. 121.], and i, [fig. 120.], and receives its proper tension from the hanging roller k; l is a press cylinder, of 14 inches diameter, made of plane-tree wood. By its means we can at all times secure an equal degree of pressure, which would be hardly possible did the weighted lever press immediately upon two points of the calender rollers. The compression exercised by the cylinders may be increased at pleasure by the bent lever m, weights being applied to it at n. The upper branch of the lever o is made fast by screws and bolts at p, to the upper press-cylinder. The junction leg q is attached to the intermediate piece r, by left and right-handed screws, so that according as that piece is turned round to the right or the left, the pressure of the weighted roller will be either increased or diminished. By turning it still more, the piece will get detached, the whole pressure will be removed, and the press-roller may be taken off; which is a main object of this mechanism.

The unequable movement of the cylinders is produced by the wheels s t u, of which the undermost has 69, the uppermost has 20, and the carrier-wheel t, either 33, 32, or 20 teeth, according to the difference of speed required. The carrier-wheel is bolted on at v, and adjusted in its proper place by means of a slot. To the undermost iron cylinder, the first motion is communicated by any power, for which purpose either a rigger (driving pulley) is applied to its shaft at u, or a crank motion. If it be desired to operate with a heated calender, the undermost hollow cylinder may be filled with hot steam, admitted through a stuffing box at one end, and discharged through a stuffing box at the other, or by a red-hot iron roller.

Pure starch would be too expensive a dressing for common calico shirtings, and therefore an extemporaneous starch is made by mixing one pound of flour with one gallon of water, and allowing the mixture to ferment in a warm place for twenty-four hours. In this way, a portion of lactic acid is formed, which dissolves the gluten, or separates it from the starch; so that when the whole is thrown upon a sieve, a liquid paste passes through, which, being boiled, answers well for stiffening the goods, without giving them a gray tinge. The paste is thinned with water to the desired degree, and faintly tinged with solution of indigo. The starch, which is sometimes thickened with porcelain clay, Paris plaster, or Spanish white, is put into a trough, and is evenly imparted to the cloth as this is drawn down through it, by the traction of rollers. There is a roller near the bottom of the trough, round which the cloth is made to run, to secure its full impregnation; while the upper rollers serve to expel its excess of the starch, and throw it back into the cistern. See [Starching Apparatus].

The goods are next dried in an apartment heated by two, three, or more flues, running along the floor, and covered usually with fire-tiles. At first the heat is moderate, but it is gradually raised to upwards of 110° F.

The goods must now be passed again through the calender, in order to receive their final smoothness and lustre. They are in the first place damped with a peculiar machine, furnished with a circular brush, whose points revolve in contact with water in a trough placed beneath them, and sprinkle drops of water upon the goods as they are drawn forwards by a pair of cylinders. They are then subjected to the powerful pressure of the calender rollers.

The calendered pieces are neatly folded into compact parcels, and stamped with the marks of each particular manufacturer, or various devices to suit the markets for which they are designed. They are finally piled on the sole of an hydraulic press, with a sheet of pasteboard between each piece; but with occasional plates of iron to secure uniformity of pressure throughout. When sufficiently condensed by the press, they are taken out, and despatched to their respective manufacturers in a state ready for sale.

There are no less than 25 steps in the bleaching of calicoes, many of them effected with expensive machinery; yet the whole do not produce to the bleacher more than 10 pence per piece, of 24 yards.

The following system was pursued a few years back, by a skilful bleacher of muslins near Glasgow:—