M. Kuhlmann deduces, from a series of experiments on baking with various small quantities of sulphate of copper, that this salt exercises an extremely energetic action upon the fermentation and rising of the dough, even when not above one seventy thousandth part of the weight of the bread is employed; or one grain of sulphate for ten pounds of bread. The proportion of the salt which makes the bread rise best is one twenty thousandth, or one grain in three pounds of bread. If much more of the sulphate be added, the bread becomes moist, less white, and acquires a peculiar disagreeable smell like that of leaven. The increase of weight by increased moisture may amount to one sixteenth without the bread appearing softer, in consequence of the solidifying quality of the copper; for the acid does not seem to have any influence; as neither sulphate of soda, sulphate of iron, nor sulphuric acid have any analogous power. Alum operates like blue vitriol on bread, but larger quantities of it are required. It keeps water, and raises well, to use the bakers’ terms.

When alum is present in bread it may be detected by treating the bread with distilled water, filtering the water first through calico, and next through filtering paper, till it becomes clear; then dividing it into two portions, and into the one pouring a few drops of nitrate or muriate of barytes, and into the other a few drops of water of ammonia. In the former a heavy white precipitate indicating sulphuric acid will appear, and in the latter a light precipitate of alumina, redissoluble by a few drops of solution of caustic potash.

When chalk or Paris plaster is used to sophisticate flour, they may be best detected by incinerating the bread made of it, and examining the ashes with nitric acid which will dissolve the chalk with effervescence, and the Paris plaster without. In both cases the calcareous matter may be demonstrated in the solution, by oxalic acid, or better by oxalate of ammonia.

In baking puff-paste the dough is first kneaded along with a certain quantity of butter, then rolled out into a thin layer, which is coated over with butter, and folded face-wise many times together, the upper and under surfaces being made to correspond. This stratified mass is again rolled out into a thin layer, its surface is besmeared with butter, and then it is folded face-wise as before. When this process is repeated ten or a dozen times, the dough will consist of many hundred parallel laminæ, with butter interposed between each pair of plates. When a moderately thick mass of this is put into the oven, the elastic vapour disengaged from the water and the butter, diffuses itself between each of the thin laminæ, and causes them to swell into what is properly called puff-paste, being an assemblage of thin membranes, each dense in itself, but more or less distinct from the other, and therefore forming apparently but not really light bread.

One of the most curious branches of the baker’s craft is the manufacture of gingerbread, which contains such a proportion of molasses, that it cannot be fermented by means of yeast. Its ingredients are flour, molasses or treacle, butter, common potashes, and alum. After the butter is melted, and the potashes and alum are dissolved in a little hot water, these three ingredients, along with the treacle, are poured among the flour, which is to form the body of the bread. The whole is then incorporated by mixture and kneading into a stiff dough. Of these five constituents the alum is thought to be the least essential, although it makes the bread lighter and crisper, and renders the process more rapid; for gingerbread dough requires to stand over several days, sometimes 8 or 10, before it acquires that state of porosity which qualifies it for the oven. The action of the treacle and alum on the potashes in evolving carbonic acid, seems to be the gasefying principle of gingerbread; for if the carbonate of potash is withheld from the mixture, the bread, when baked, resembles in hardness a piece of wood.

Treacle is always acidulous. Carbonate of magnesia and soda may be used as substitutes for the potashes. Dr. Colquhoun has found that carbonate of magnesia and tartaric acid may replace the potashes and the alum with great advantage, affording a gingerbread fully more agreeable to the taste, and much more wholesome than the common kind, which contains a notable quantity of potashes. His proportions are one pound of flour, a quarter of an ounce of carbonate of magnesia, and one eighth of an ounce of tartaric acid; in addition to the treacle, butter, and aromatics as at present used. The acid and alkaline earth must be well diffused through the whole dough. The magnesia should, in fact, be first of all mixed with the flour. Pour the melted butter, the treacle, and the acid dissolved in a little water all at once among the flour, and knead into a consistent dough, which being set aside for half an hour or an hour will be ready for the oven, and should never be kept unbaked more than 2 or 3 hours. The following more complete recipe is given by Dr. Colquhoun, for making thin gingerbread cakes:—

Flour1 lb.
Treacle01⁄2
Raw sugar01⁄4
Butter2 oz.
Carbon. magnesia01⁄4
Tartaric acid01⁄8
Ginger01⁄8
Cinnamon01⁄8
Nutmeg1
This compound has rather more butter than common thin gingerbread.

I shall here insert a passage from my Dictionary of Chemistry as published in 1821; as it may prove interesting to many of my present readers.

“Under Process of Baking, in the Supplement to the Encyclopedia Britannica, we have the following statement:—‘An ounce of alum is then dissolved over the fire in a tin pot, and the solution poured into a large tub, called by the bakers the seasoning-tub. Four pounds and a half of salt are likewise put into the tub, and a pailful of hot water.’—Foot note on this passage.—‘In London, where the goodness of bread is estimated entirely by its whiteness, it is usual with those bakers who employ flour of an inferior quality, to add as much alum as common salt to the dough; or, in other words, the quantity of salt added is diminished one half, and the deficiency supplied by an equal weight of alum. This improves the look of the bread very much, rendering it much whiter and firmer.’”

In a passage which we shall presently quote, our author represents the bakers of London in a conspiracy to supply the citizens with bad bread. We may hence infer that the full allowance he assigns of 21⁄4 pounds of alum for every 21⁄4 pounds of salt, will be adopted in converting the sack of flour into loaves. But as a sack of flour weighs 280 pounds, and furnishes on an average 80 quartern loaves, we have 21⁄4 pounds divided by 80, or 15750 grains80 = 197 grains, for the quantity present, by this writer, in a London quartern loaf. Yet in the very same page (39th of vol. ii.) we have the following passage: “Alum is not added by all bakers. The writer of this article has been assured by several bakers of respectability, both in Edinburgh and Glasgow, on whose testimony he relies, and who made excellent bread, that they never employed any alum. The reason for adding it given by the London bakers is, that it renders the bread whiter, and enables them to separate readily the loaves from each other. This addition has been alleged by medical men, and is considered by the community at large, as injurious to the health, by occasioning constipation. But if we consider the small quantity of this salt added by the baker, not quite 51⁄2 grains to a quartern loaf, we will not readily admit these allegations. Suppose an individual to eat the seventh part of a quartern loaf a day, he would only swallow eight-tenths of a grain of alum, or, in reality, not quite so much as half a grain; for one half of this salt consists of water. It seems absurd to suppose that half a grain of alum, swallowed at different times during the course of a day, should occasion constipation.” Is it not more absurd to state 21⁄4 pounds or 36 ounces, as the alum adulteration of a sack of flour by the London bakers, and within a few periods to reduce the adulteration to one ounce?