When a mordant is applied to any stuff, the portion of it remaining upon the surface of the fibres should be removed; since, by its combination with the colouring matter, it would be apt to form an external crust of mere pigment, which would block up the pores, obstruct the entrance of the dye into the interior, and also exhaust to no purpose the dyeing power of the bath. For this reason the stuffs, after the application of the mordant, are drained, squeezed, washed, and sometimes (particularly with cotton and linen, in calico printing), even hard dried in a hot stove.
The saline mordants, moreover, should not in general possess the crystallizing property in any considerable degree, as this opposes their affinity of composition for the cloth. On this account the deliquescent acetates of iron and alumina are more ready to aid the dyeing of cotton than copperas and alum.
Alum is the great mordant employed in wool dyeing. It is frequently dissolved in water, holding tartar equal to one fourth the weight of the alum in solution; by which addition its tendency to crystallize is diminished, and the resulting colour is brightened. The alum and tartar combine with the stuff without suffering any change, and are decomposed only by the action of the colouring matters in the dye bath. The alum operates solely in virtue of its sulphuric acid, and earthy basis; the sulphate of potash present in that salt being rather injurious. Hence, if a sulphate of alumina free from iron could be readily obtained, it would prove a preferable mordant to alum. It is also probable, for the reason above assigned, that soda alum, a salt much less apt to crystallize than potash or ammonia alum, would suit the dyer very well. In order to counteract the tendency of common alum to crystallize, and to promote its tendency to pass into a basic salt, one eighth part of its weight of potash is added to its solution, or the equivalent in chalk or soda.
We shall conclude this account of the general principles of dyeing, with Mr. Delaval’s observations on the nature of dyes, and a list of the different substances used in dyeing, in reference to the colours produced by them.
Sir Isaac Newton supposed coloured matters to reflect the rays of light; some bodies reflecting the more, others the less, refrangible rays most copiously; and this he conceived to be the true, and the only reason of their colours. Mr. Delaval, however, proved in the 2d vol. of the “Memoirs of the Philosophical and Literary Society of Manchester,” that, “in transparent coloured substances, the colouring substance does not reflect any light; and that when, by intercepting the light which was transmitted, it is hindered from passing through substances, they do not vary from their former colour to any other colour, but become entirely black;” and he instances a considerable number of coloured liquors, none of them endued with reflective powers, which, when seen by transmitted light, appeared severally in their true colours; but all of them, when seen by incident light, appeared black; which is also the case of black cherries, black currants, black berries, &c., the juices of which appeared red when spread on a white ground, or otherwise viewed by transmitted instead of incident light; and he concludes, that bleached linen, &c. “when dyed or painted with vegetable colours, do not differ in their manner of acting on the rays of light, from natural vegetable bodies; both yielding their colours by transmitting through the transparent coloured matter, the light which is reflected from the white ground:” it being apparent, from different experiments, “that no reflecting power resides in any of their components, except in their white matter only,” and that “transparent coloured substances, placed in situations by which transmission of light through them is intercepted, exhibit no colour, but become entirely black.”
The art of dyeing, therefore, (according to Mr. Delaval) “consists principally in covering white substances, from which light is strongly reflected, with transparent coloured media, which, according to their several colours, transmit more or less copiously the rays reflected from the white,” since “the transparent media themselves reflect no light; and it is evident that if they yielded their colours by reflecting, instead of transmitting the rays, the whiteness or colour of the ground on which they are applied, would not in anywise alter or affect the colours which they exhibit.”
But when any opaque basis is interposed, the reflection is doubtless made by it, rather than by the substance of the dyed wool, silk, &c., and more especially when such basis consists of the white earth of alum, or the white oxide of tin; which, by their strong reflective powers, greatly augment the lustre of colours. There are, moreover, some opaque colouring matters, particularly the acetous, and other solutions of iron, used to stain linen, cotton, &c., which must necessarily themselves reflect, instead of transmitting the light by which their colours are made perceptible.
The compound or mixed colours, are such as result from the combination of two differently coloured dye stuffs, or from dyeing stuffs with one colour, and then with another. The simple colours of the dyer, are red, yellow, blue, and black, with which, when skilfully blended, he can produce every variety of tint. Perhaps the dun or fawn colour might be added to the above, as it is directly obtained from a great many vegetable substances.
1. Red with yellow, produces orange; a colour, which upon wool, is given usually with the spent scarlet bath. To this shade may be referred flame colour, pomegranate, capuchin, prawn, jonquil, cassis, chamois, café au lait, aurora, marigold, orange peel, mordorés, cinnamon, gold, &c. Snuff, chesnut, musk, and other shades are produced by substituting walnut peels or sumach for bright yellow. If a little blue be added to orange, an olive is obtained. The only direct orange dyes are annotto, and subchromate of lead; see [Silk] and [Wool] Dyeing.
2. Red with blue produces purple, violet, lilac, pigeon’s neck, mallow, peach-blossom, bleu de roi, lint-blossom, amaranth.