The additional varieties of figure which might be given are almost endless, but the limits of this article will not admit a further detail. Those already given are the articles in most general use. The varieties of fancy may be indulged to great extent, but it is universally found, that the most simple patterns in every department of ornamental weaving, are those which attract attention and command purchasers. We shall therefore only add two examples of king’s cord or corduroy, two of Genoa and common velvet, and two more of jean. These will be found below.
| No. 15.—King’s Cord. | No. 16.—Dutch Cord. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 0 | 0 | 1 | § | 0 | 4 | 1 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 0 | 0 | 2 | § | 0 | 0 | 5 | 2 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 0 | 0 | 7 | 3 | § | 0 | 0 | 6 | 3 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 0 | 0 | 8 | 4 | § | 0 | 0 | 7 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 0 | 0 | 0 | 5 | § | 0 | 0 | 0 | 8 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 0 | 0 | 6 | § | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 9 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 1 | 3 | 8 | 6 | 4 | 2 | 6 | 4 | 2 | 3 | 1 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 5 | 7 | 5 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| No. 17.—Genoa Velvet. | No. 18.—Plain Velvet. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 0 | 0 | 1 | § | 1 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 0 | 0 | 0 | 2 | § | 2 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 0 | 0 | 3 | § | 3 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 0 | 0 | 4 | § | 4 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 0 | 0 | 5 | § | 5 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 0 | 0 | 6 | § | 6 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 2 | 4 | 8 | 12 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 8 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 6 | 7 | 5 | 7 | 5 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 10 | 11 | 9 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
After the fustian cloth is taken from the loom-beam, it is carried to the cutter, who rips up the surface-threads of weft, and produces thereby a hairy-looking stuff.
Preparatory to its being cut, the cloth is spread evenly upon a table about six feet long, upon each end of which a roller mounted with a ratchet-wheel is fixed; the one to give off, and the other to wind up the piece, in the above six-feet lengths.
The knife is a steel rod about two feet long, and three-eighths of an inch square, having a square handle at the one end; the other end is tapered away to a blade, as thin as paper. To prevent this point from turning downwards and injuring the cloth, its under side is covered by a guide which serves to stiffen it, as well as to prevent its lower edge from cutting the fustian.
The operative (male or female) grasps the handle in the right hand, and insinuating the projecting point of the guide under the weft, pushes the knife smartly forward through the whole length of six feet, with a certain dexterous movement of the shoulder and right side, balancing the body meanwhile, like a fencer, upon the left foot. This process is repeated upon every adhesive line of the weft.
The next process to which fustians are exposed is steeping in hot water, to take out the dressing paste. They are then dried, reeled, and brushed by a machine, &c. From twenty to thirty pieces, each eighty yards long, may be brushed in an hour. The breadth of the cloth is twenty inches. The maceration is performed by immersing the bundled pieces in tanks of water, heated by waste steam; and the washing by means of a reel or winch, kept revolving rapidly under the action of a stream of cold water, for an hour or longer.
After being thus ripped up, it is taken to the brushing or teazling machine, to make it shaggy.
This consists of a series of wooden rollers, turning freely upon iron axles, and covered with tin-plate, rough with the burs of punched holes; and blocks of wood, whose concave under surfaces are covered with card-cloth or card-brushes, and which are made to traverse backwards and forwards in the direction of the axes of the revolving rollers, during the passage of the cloth over them.